Blog

  • 27Dec13

    27Dec13

    Time for a blog about cultural norms. People love making out in public here. Not a sweet, prolonged kiss. I’m talking hardcore, hands-barely-over-the-clothes making out.

    My lovely friend Nicole gave us a heads up that we’d see a lot of this through our Latin American travels, since she did as well. And since she is Bolivian, I take her explanation seriously: everybody lives with their families, so the only place to make out is at the park. Or sitting next to me at a taqueria.

     

    People making out in Chapultepec Park Mexico City

     

    I can understand the teenagers, but there are 30- and 40-somethings too. Ah, to grow up without Puritan influence. I snapped these photos while Chris and I were riding bikes through the park. Pretty sneaky, huh? Or maybe just pervy.

     

    Bike riding Mexico City Chapultepec Park

     

    At this time next week, we’ll be en route to Chile — unless we bump up against any issues with Holly’s paperwork. The vet and I were commiserating about how terrible the website is for Mexico’s agricultural/wildlife agency. Thankfully, he was very helpful. Fingers crossed.

     

  • 26Dec13

    26Dec13

    Today is Holly’s quinceañera! We love this girl so much that we only subjected her to this purple rhinestone bow. Plus she prefers understated and classy. And we made up for the embarrassment with a present.

     

    dog quinceañera

     

    Depending on what you formula you subscribe to, Holly is anywhere from 75 to 105 in human years. Wow! And she’s still lively as ever:

     

     

    Happy birthday, pretty girl. I hope we’re giving you a happy life!

     

  • 25Dec13

    25Dec13

    ¡Feliz Navidad! We miss you all and hope you’re enjoying the holidays. Doesn’t Chris’s beard look awesome?

    Two hot life tips for you:

    1. Go see The Secret Life of Walter Mitty!!!
    2. Turn that leftover stale bread into something useful, like so:

     

    Bread menu holder

     

     

  • 24Dec13

    24Dec13

    These chiles have lots of Christmas spirit. It’s very quiet in the city right now, except if you stray too close to Sears or Woolworth. Kind of like when you’re in San Francisco over Christmas.

    The supermarket nearby cleared all the shelves in their bakery to sell packs of baguettes — three to a bag. There are three more walls of these!

     

    Christmas time bread in Mexico City

     

    One of the things we love about Mexico City are the vendors who ride up and down the streets, usually selling pan dulce. Sometimes they’ll have a bell or call out “tamales!” Sometimes they’ll play a recording, like this one. Can you tell what she’s saying? (Make sure your volume is turned up so you can hear until the end — the truck was driving faster than I could walk!)

     

     

    I love her sing-songy cadence. We always hear but we could never quite understand what she’s saying, until our neighbor told us: they buy used stoves, microwaves, mattresses, washing machines, etc. “Te compra…colchones…”

     

  • 23Dec13

    23Dec13

    This photo isn’t exactly tasteful, but it’s the only one I took today. And why wouldn’t I snap this photo? What dog chooses the most confined space possible to pee? Holly, the girl just three days away from her quinceañera. What a crazy old dog. We love her.

    This is also the only photo we took because we’re suffering from a little bit of travel fatigue, I think. Maybe we’re ready for the next leg of our journey, maybe it’s tough being away from home during the holidays, maybe we’re ready to be feeling healthier. To top it off, we had some horrible, horrible sushi tonight at the restaurant at the bottom of our building. It’s always so busy, we thought it would be good. Instead, one word: mayonnaise.

    We still have a week and a half here in Mexico City, and I’m glad we stayed here this long despite our complaints about the pollution. The Professional Hobo wrote a blog post about why she loves slow travel and I wholeheartedly agree with it.

    There’s a moment you reach where you no longer feel someplace foreign — you’re just where you are. Chris and I were laughing the other day while walking down the street, because sometimes we forget we’re in Mexico. It’s a weird but cool feeling.

    So with that, here are the remaining things on our Mexico City do list:

  • 22Dec13

    22Dec13

    This tree is a metaphor for my current state of health: somewhat gnarly. My cold won’t go away and now I’ve got some stomach problems. Neither are bad enough to put me totally out of commission — just to take away any holiday cheer.

    Yesterday, we did take two of visiting Coyoacán after our first try was nice but unsuccessful. We visited the Frida Kahlo Museum — la casa azul — and enjoyed it a lot. You have to pay if you want to take photos inside, so I said forget it. But we did get these two outside:

     

    Frida Kahlo Museum Mexico City

     

    There’s a beautiful park in Coyoacán called Viveros de Coyoacán, which we were happy to take a stroll through. It’s great to be in the trees.

     

    Viveros de Coyoacan Mexico City

  • 19Dec13

    19Dec13

    Today was an activity-free day, with a couple nice walks and lots of reading. With that, here are some recommended reads:

    Lastly, this photo made me smile today:

     

  • 18Dec13

    18Dec13

    According to this air-quality monitoring website, the air quality in Mexico City today is “good” to “moderate.” After snapping this photo today, I’m skeptical.

    Both Chris and I have had very dry, scratchy throats, lots of sniffling and sneezing, and are generally feeling breathless. We don’t think it’s the altitude, since we’ve been here for more than two weeks. I’m convinced it’s the pollution, with help from the smokers upstairs.

    In my previous life, I would do things like help promote research about the effects of dirty air. Knowing what I know now, I would skip the press release and create a mobile chamber with dirty air in it that people have to sit in. With their children. Although, the photos of Shanghai (scroll to bottom for slideshow) recently have the next-best effect.

    Anyway, it’s making both of us really cranky and ready to find a small town immediately. But if I’ve learned anything so far on this trip, it’s to stick with it and be a little more resilient. Maybe this brown cloud has a silver lining. Maybe we should get masks.

    We visited the Castillo de Chapultepec today, which houses the national history museum. It was very beautiful. Beautiful enough to make us a little less cranky.

     

    Castillo Chapultepec gardens

     

    The upstairs gardens are above, with some poinsettia planted for the holidays. Below are some stained glass windows from inside the castle which, if my Spanish sign-reading is correct, were about fertility.

     

    Castillo de Chapultepec Stained Glass

     

    And last, but certainly not least, there were a number of beautiful murals. I leave you with this panorama. Tomorrow is a new day.

     

    Castillo de Chapultepec mural

     

     

  • 17Dec13

    17Dec13

    Teotihuacan has lots of sun and fresh air — a nice refuge from Mexico City smog. See the smog in the distance? There’s another mountain at roughly 11 o’clock, but you can’t see it.

     

    Mexico City smog from Teotihuacan

     

    Teotihuacan is an ancient, pre-Hispanic city that is home to the world’s third-largest pyramid — the Pyramid of the Sun. Fortunately, they installed some simple handrails for safety. Here’s Chris braving the descent.

     

    Teotihuacan Pyramid Stairs

     

    Pyramid of the Sun Teotihuacan

     

    That’s the Pyramid of the Sun above. It’s pretty amazing at the top, and Chris had the foresight to have us get up early so we could beat the organized tours. Yes, friends — today was the first time in three months that we’ve used our alarm.

    The ride there was a breeze, but coming back we got to experience some of Mexico City’s famed traffic which was no bueno. There are plenty of buses that leave from Mexico City’s Terminal Central del Norte. We used the company that is at the far north end of the terminal, second to the last. It was 160 pesos round-trip for the two of us, plus 57 pesos per person to enter the park. Here’s more information about hours and tickets at Teotihuacan. The bus company will tell you where to catch your return bus.

    Overall, it was a great experience. You get to roam around and check out whatever you’d like, and there’s a small but informative museum with artifacts and other anthropological information. The big thing that I remember from the museum — and from the private tour Chris and I eavesdropped on — was that the people who lived there divided themselves by their trades. I was also pleased to be able to pronounce words like Quetzalcoatl, although sadly it’s because my alma mater still, in 2013, has the Aztec warrior as its mascot.

     

    Teotihuacan cactus

     

    Pyramid of the Moon Teotihuacan

     

    And there’s the Pyramid of the Moon. You can’t see it, but all along the Avenue of the Dead which runs through the city, there’s an underground water duct system. Near the entrance, there were a number of large holes that would capture the water. But I didn’t have the patience to look for the sign that explained everything.

    Enough of my rambling! It’s a world heritage site, so there’s tons of reading you can do on the history. I leave you with more photos.

     

    Teotihuacan Stones 640

     

    Temple of Quetzalcoatl Teotihuacan

     

    And lastly, since I began this post with smog, I found this article from earlier this year about a building in Mexico City that eats smog. Happy reading!

  • 16Dec13

    16Dec13

    One might ask, how do you afford a leap year? We talk about this broadly in our FAQ, but I thought I’d dig a little deeper.

    While cost of living has been less expensive on the whole, things can get wildly expensive if we’re not careful. Cocktails are still ~$8-10 USD a pop and a pound of chicken at the grocery store is ~$5-7 USD. Other things, like dog grooming, are wildly inexpensive at only $10-15 USD!

    Also, there are other costs that you need to plan for, like drinking water.

     

    mexico city drinking water

     

    These empty bottles held 52 liters of water, and we just opened another 10-liter bottle yesterday that we’re about a quarter of the way through. I don’t remember the exact cost, but they’re approximately $30 MXN, or around $2.50 USD. So that’s around $15 for 12 days of drinking water for the three of us. Not outrageous, and definitely cheaper than buying single bottles of water. That’s why water bottles were on our long-term travel packing list. But I digress.

    For the average person, your biggest recurring costs will be housing and food, so I’ll focus on those two for now. Plus, if you keep these two in check, you have money left for other fun stuff!

    Housing
    Laura Vanderkam says that the key to financial happiness is less house, and I couldn’t agree with her more. The same rule applies while traveling. Think about what’s really important to you. We were able to find something really cheap, but it had a cockroach problem and the running water was spotty so we had to upgrade. But otherwise, it would have been perfect: bed, sofa and coffee table, wi-fi, kitchen with a basic set of cookware, bathroom with a shower, a closet, and a central/walkable location. We’re not traveling to stay in fancy accommodations; we’re traveling to see the places the accommodations are located in!

    We have a set housing budget, and we do our best to stay at or below it by staying places longer so we can pay weekly/monthly rates. Paying hotel rates of $90-190 USD/night is only for emergencies. Laura Vanderkam also talks about how, though housing is one of your biggest expenses, it also only requires a single moment of willpower versus daily discipline. And because it’s your biggest expense, that single moment of willpower can have a disproportionate impact on your budget. So the takeaway here: take the time to shop around for places to stay and be disciplined about sticking to your budget; it’ll enable day-to-day splurging.

    Food
    Oh, we remember the days of dropping $12 USD on a tiny, unsatisfying salad for lunch in San Francisco. Gone are those days, and we’re eating much, much better. You can get great quality food very cheap. A typical day of food looks like this:

    • Breakfast, at home: Coffee, oatmeal, yogurt/fruit
    • Lunch, out: Street food, comida corrida (see photo above), or an inexpensive cafe
    • Snacks, out: Espresso drink/limonada/fresh-squeezed juice from a street vendor, cookie/slice of cake
    • Dinner, at home: Something homemade that will last a couple days, e.g. sauteed meat and veggies with tortillas
    • Booze: Wine if at home, beer if out

    Now, we don’t always stick to this because a) that would be super boring and b) sometimes other activities dictate where you eat. Sometimes it’s nice to splurge on a big brunch, but then eat leftovers at home later. Sometimes you just want a PBJ for lunch, and then go out for your weight in tacos and beer for dinner. We’ve been eating really good so far and aren’t wanting for anything. The takeaways here are: pricey doesn’t necessarily mean good quality or a better time, and try to make at least one meal a day at home.

    Hope these tips are interesting and useful! Still here? Here’s a Holly photobomb.

     

    Agua photobomb