Blog

  • 05Jul14

    05Jul14

    Just hanging out here in Tulum still, having a nice time. See, don’t we look happy and relaxed? We were waiting at a traffic light on our way home after watching Costa Rica vs. the Netherlands when I was inspired to take a cycling selfie.

    Now that Los Ticos are out (sadly), the only team we have any sort of allegiance to is Argentina, so we’ll root for them.

    Not much new going on, except that we’re doing some future planning and continuing to work on our projects. Tried some new types of pan dulce. Finished putting together our shortlist of things we want to do here before we leave. I also accidentally ran over an iguana on my bike! It was unharmed.

    Other updates:

    • We’ll have another visitor: This time it’s my mom! She’ll be here starting July 13 and we’ll hit the beaches together.
    • We’re planning our final stops: After Tulum, we’re heading to Mérida to get a little city life. Then, we’ll be checking out either San Miguel de Allende or Valle de Bravo before heading back to La Paz…then back to the US.
    • Holly’s hot: This is not new — just a continuation of her previous state. But she still likes going on her walks despite the heat.

     

  • 01Jul14

    01Jul14

    It’s #TravelTipTuesday! I know, we’ve really slacked on this. But when we saw this coffee menu today, we were inspired.

    The sign’s funny, right? But it’s also a good reminder: when traveling, mind your manners. Just because you’re welcomed into a country doesn’t mean you own the place. Give respect and you’ll get respect back. Simple as that.

    In other news, today’s game between the U.S. and Belgium was a roller coaster of emotion. As trite as it sounds, they left it all on the field. We enjoyed watching. Now we’re rooting for Costa Rica.

    Later this evening, I’m leading a live workshop on how to take a traveling sabbatical. And this morning, I interviewed Lisa and Brookie to get their advice on how to start a business abroad and enjoy the expat life. Also working on a follow-up to my LinkedIn article talking to people who took traveling sabbaticals and what it was like to get a job afterwards. Lots of good stuff coming your way soon!

  • 30Jun14

    30Jun14

    Today we put the “leap” in leap year. That blurry cannonball is me jumping into Cenote Calavera, the closest cenote to our casita. It was our starter cenote. And no, I’m not naked — I’m wearing a teal bathing suit!

    On the road to Cobá, just under 2km from the main highway, there’s a painted sign that says “Cenote.” A friendly guy in a chair collects ~US$6 from you, and you proceed through what is pretty much someone’s backyard. Then, you come upon this:

     

    Calaveras Cenote 3

     

    What is a cenote? It’s essentially a sinkhole that exposes groundwater. Brr, the water’s chilly!

    We were the only ones there. We stepped over to the edge and prepared ourselves to jump. It’s probably no higher than jumping off the high dive at a pool. But you’re diving into a dark hole! I mean, just look how white and bright the surrounding rocks are for contrast. Plus I saw what I thought were bats flying around. But Chris said, “No, look — they’re just birds.” They have nests on the walls and roof of the cave.

     

    Calaveras Cenote 2

     

    Calaveras Cenote

     

    After I jumped in, I nearly had a heart attack when I surfaced because the splashes of water caused loud echoes that I swore was some kind of cave monster. Yes, I am that ridiculous. I scrambled over to the ladder but the sound stopped, and then I was surrounded by lots of small freshwater fish. The water was deeper than we thought — probably at least 12-15 feet.

    Chris was giving me a hard time because it took me a minute to get the courage to jump, but when it was his turn he felt my pain. It’s not easy to leap in that first time! But after you’ve done it once, it gets a lot easier. Boom, life metaphor.

     

    Chris Cenote Splash

     

    Chris Cenote

     

    Cenote Ladder

     

  • 28Jun14

    28Jun14

    We visited the Tulum ruins today, but I took more photos of iguanas. They were everywhere!

    Our place is only a 10-minute bike ride from the ruins. We thought we were heeding the advice to “get there early” by arriving just after 10am. But really, you should get there right when they open at 8am. The place was already swarming. How I managed to get photos without people in them is beyond me.

    While it’s really touristy — meaning it’s a total circus of vendors and food stands and guides outside — it’s worth the ~US$6/person to get in and see at least once. The site isn’t very big and you can wander around freely and see everything in 45 minutes. Interesting history and a great ocean view.

     

    Tulum Ruins 3

     

    Tulum Iguana 1

     

    Tulum Iguana 2

     

    Tulum Ruins 1

     

    Tulum Iguana 4

     

    Tulum Ruins 2

     

    Lastly, here’s a photo of my hero, Chris, who is braving the biting ants that got me earlier and unlocking my bike for me. Thanks, Chrisser!!

     

    Chris Bikes

     

     

     

  • 26Jun14

    26Jun14

    Work, World Cup, beach — repeat. That’s our routine here in Tulum. Theoretically we should just get up and go first thing in the morning since that’s when it’s coolest, but we’re at our most focused in the mornings and we like to sit back with our coffee.

    Not much to report, except that we’re about a month away from our home stretch. So we’re doing quite a bit of planning. More to be announced. In the meantime, here are more photos.

     

    Tulum Palm Tree

    Don’t let a coco fall and hit you in the face

     

    Tulum Boat

    These guys take people out snorkeling every day — one day we’ll go with them

     

    Beach Garden

    My new beach pastime is to create little gardens made out of the stuff I find within an arm’s reach of my towel

     

    Tulum Palm Tree Roots

    On the other side of this tree was a group of dudes  playing techno music

     

    Beach Road Tulum

    The road that runs parallel to the beach

     

    Tulum Turtle Nests

    Turtle eggs live here

     

    Bike Path Tulum

    Riding home on the bike path — then, when we get to the freeway, we have to dart across 

     

     

     

  • 23Jun14

    23Jun14

    After doing some work this morning, we headed out for a bike ride. Above is a photo of a mural along the main drag in Tulum.

    We also watched Mexico v. Croatia at an Italian place called Sale e Pepe which had great pizza. Just like being back in Italy.

     

    Mexico vs Croatia

    Fans eagerly watching…

     

    …then celebrating the first goal

     

    Tulum Plaza

    The plaza downtown

     

    Tulum Church

    A quick ride by the church

     

  • 22Jun14

    22Jun14

    We just got back from watching the US v. Portugal game in el centro. It’s a nice, flat bike ride on the side of the highway into Tulum pueblo, and there’s also a paved path to the beach. We’re enjoying cruising around and checking out the sights, while darting across the highway on our beach cruisers like everyone else does. And eating tacos el pastor. Oh, how we’ve missed them.

    Our favorite part of the beach so far is Playa Las Palmas. It’s on the north end, just before Playa Paraiso, and there’s a little restaurant and a few trees for shade. There are a bunch of roped off areas along the beach that a guy told us mark where the turtles lay their eggs.

    While it’s hot here, it’s surprisingly not too bothersome. Maybe we’re used to it from Costa Rica. However, while we barely used the A/C in Costa Rica, we have to use it here. The casita gets a lot of direct sun and the fans aren’t strong enough. Holly is very happy with the A/C situation.

    These little yellow-bellied birds (pictured above) are all around, and it’s fun to see their colors darting around. Here’s a shot of where our neighborhood borders the jungle.

     

    Jungle Tulum

     

    This is a boring blog post, really. We’re still getting our bearings and figuring out what we want to do while we’re here. If you have any suggestions, send them over!

     

  • 20Jun14

    20Jun14

    Yesterday, we paid a visit to our old friend, los Estados Unidos. We had a connection in Miami, but we’re telling ourselves that Miami is practically still Latin America, so technically we didn’t cheat. Now, we’re in lovely Tulum.

    It was a rough travel day because we had to pass through U.S. immigration and customs in Miami even though our final destination was Mexico. That took forever and made us nervous because we didn’t have a health certificate for Holly to get into the U.S. — only Mexico. But fortunately nobody gave us a hard time, although the guy who checked our passports looked at us very suspiciously when we told him we’d been traveling since October.

    Then my bag got sent to Washington, DC instead of Cancún, which was a downer but no real loss because all the clothes inside were dirty anyway. Although I did tell our shuttle driver, “No puedo cepillar los dientes, así que mi esposo va a sufrir.” He laughed and told me to use a coco leaf and I’d be fine. We were taking a shuttle because, for the first time, we got kicked off a bus for having Holly with us.

    We’re staying in a little casita in Tulum pueblo, about 3km from the beach. It’s a neighborhood with Mexican families and Italian expats. (We haven’t asked them how they feel about Italy’s World Cup performance today against Costa Rica.) We’ve rented bikes for the month from a great place called iBike Tulum (right across from the Chedraui) so it’s easy to get around. Their service and prices were great! We’re looking forward to riding around to the beach, the cenotes, and the ruins.

    It’s awesome being back in Mexico. While we were walking Holly, the pan dulce guy rode by. That actually makes me way happier than the views we saw today.

     

    Tulum Playa 2

  • 18Jun14

    18Jun14

    Hoy es el último día en Costa Rica. We have that mix of nervous energy and sadness whenever we’re leaving to head someplace new.

    Yesterday we drove from Monteverde around Lake Arenal and then to Alajuela, where we spent today doing some quehaceres, catching up with Christina, and watching a little World Cup.

    Here are some photos from the past couple days. See you in Tulum!

     

    Monteverde Cloud Forest

    Monday morning hike in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve — we were too late to see birds, but we did see some pizotes

     

    Birds of Paradise Monteverde

    Flora in the forest

     

    Chris Monteverde

    One of the things that’s pretty amazing are the big, old trees: they have hundreds of other plants growing on them

     

    Bromeliad Monteverde

    A colorful bromeliad growing in the forest

     

    Fern Monteverde

    A funky fern

     

    The only photo I took on our night hike was of this little lady tarantula — we also saw some cool birds and bugs

     

    Volcan Arenal

    Volcán Arenal shrouded in clouds — the drive around Lake Arenal was lovely and this was a great finishing touch

     

    Tamara Christina Chris

    Our friend Christina came to stay in the same hostel as us before she set off to visit other friends in the area

     

    Alajuela Central Square

    Alajuela’s central square

     

    Alajuela Church

    The cathedral overlooking Alajuela’s central square

     

    Alajuela World Cup

    A special screen set up for World Cup watching in downtown Alajuela — go Chile!

     

  • 16Jun14

    16Jun14

    Welcome to the cloud forest! We rented a car and made the drive up Monteverde’s notoriously rocky and rutted dirt access roads. And we’ve been rewarded with beautiful sights, cool insects and even cooler climate.

    Monteverde is a well-trodden tourist destination, so we won’t be staying here long or we’ll blow our monthly budget. But so far, our most memorable experiences have been a morning nature hike in Reserva Santa Elena, afternoon coffee prepared by Chemex, and learning about beetles and butterflies at the Jardín de Mariposas, which we highly recommend.

    Last, but not least, a big happy birthday to my dad today!!

     

    Goodbye to Samara

    Saying good-bye to our home away from home in Sámara, with our kind hosts, Cindy and David

     

    Drive to Monteverde

    The view while driving up to Monteverde

     

    Santa Elena Preserve 2

    Reserva Santa Elena rainforest

     

    Donald Santa Elena

    Our naturalist guide, Donald, talking to us about the plants and insects

     

    Beetle Monteverde

    One of the many, many species of beetles that inhabit the forest

     

    Angelina Jolie flower

    This is not a flower, but a leaf that a flower will grow out of

     

    Donald Tarantula

    Donald using his cell phone flashlight and a stick to try to coax a tarantula out of its burrow — thankfully it didn’t work

     

    Butterfly Santa Elena Reserve

    Glasswing butterfly

     

    Santa Elena Preserve

    More Reserva Santa Elena, including this river that leads to Lake Arenal

     

    Buttress Root Tree

    A tree with “buttress” roots

     

    Tamara Chemex Coffee

    Eagerly waiting for our caffeine fix at Stella’s

     

    Hercules Beetle

    The Hercules beetle, clinging to a banana — those aren’t for pinching, they’re horns for fighting other males

     

    Owl Butterfly

    Our butterfly garden guide with an owl butterfly — notice how their pattern looks like an owl on the left and a snake on the right to fool predators

     

    Morphos Butterfly

    The Morpho butterfly, which prefers to eat fermented fruit, is essentially drunk most of the time and flies in a zig-zag pattern which makes it difficult to track by predators, despite its vibrant blue on the inside (see video below)

     

     

    Leafcutter Ants

    Leafcutter ant colony — the leaves decompose and feed this fungus that is their home