Blog

  • 03Aug14

    03Aug14

    We woke up to the sound of rain and Holly’s snores this morning. In San Francisco, we dreaded the rain, but here it cools everything down. After it stopped, we took Holly for an early morning walk and caught the sunrise. I love the clouds here.

     

    Sunrise Villas Tulum

     

    What you don’t see is the ground below, which is strewn with garbage. There’s even a sign threatening a MX$10,000 fine, but it doesn’t seem to deter anyone. Part of it also seems to be that the trash bin there is sometimes overflowing in between pickups. The beaches, at least, are free of trash.

    We headed over to the beach early to beat the Sunday crowds, and were rewarded with the calmest water. We just floated there for a very long time, talking about the future and reflecting on what we’ve learned.

    We’ll be sharing some fun posts over the next week or two, including some of our best and worst experiences, an interview with Lisa and Brookie about how they started their new life in Costa Rica, and lessons learned from the leap. More soon.

     

    Tulum Beach 3

     

    Tulum Beach

     

  • 30Jul14

    30Jul14

    We can’t believe we’re saying this, but our leap year is almost over. Or is it?

    This sunset is over a lagoon in Sian Ka’an, which we took yesterday since we’re back in Tulum. (That’s a story for another day.) In just two weeks, we’ll be driving across the US-Mexico border. After visiting friends and family throughout California, we’ll hike all 165 miles of the Tahoe Rim Trail with my dad. Even though it won’t be abroad, it will be the grand finale of our year.

    We’re so, so glad we took this year. Transformative is the word I’d use. Not only did we see beautiful places, but it has strengthened our relationship, our skills, and our ability to adapt. Just as important, it has reinforced our desire to live by our definition of success — not someone else’s. So, with that, we announce our next leap into the unknown: our new life as digital nomads.

    / What do you mean? / To us, it means a life focused on strong relationships and new experiences. We’re cutting out the things that don’t matter to us — an endless race up the career ladder, square footage with fancy furniture, the latest fashions and gadgets — to focus on the things that do: spending time with people we care about, jobs that challenge and provide meaning, and making the most of our time on earth.

    / OK, but what does that mean? / Chris and I have found a way to structure our lives to be location-independent. We are both embarking on location-independent careers, which provide us with fun challenges and income. While we won’t necessarily be abroad — there are lots of places to see in the US, too — we’ll be exploring different towns, cities, countries as well as making our way to visit friends and family more often than in this past year. So we’ll be nomads, and we’ll work digitally. Get it?

    / How did you make this decision? / It all started when we asked ourselves, “You know, we could pretty much live anywhere after this. Where should we go?” And we were stumped. Not because we couldn’t think of a place, but because we thought of too many places. Why limit ourselves? So we put together a budget for this new life, scheduled a meeting with our financial planner, and started making life decisions with this plan in mind.

    / Where will you live? / We’re keeping our condo in San Francisco, both as an investment and because we may want to move back one day, but for now we’ll continue renting it out. Maybe we’ll spend a month in Boulder, then two months in Tulum, then a month in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo before heading to Florence for two months. You get the picture. If it’s got internet access, it’s fair game. We’ll continue to rent Airbnbs/short-term apartments. The good thing about Airbnbs is we get double credit card points which means free fliiiiights…

    / Won’t you miss your friends and family? / Of course! But with this new setup, we’ll actually see more of our friends and family because we’ll have more flexibility. In our pre-leap-year life, we were limited to whirlwind weekend visits or setting dinner dates a month in a half in advance. The real question is whether our friends and family will have time to see more of us!

    / What will Chris do for work? / Even before we set out on our leap year, Chris started investigating location-independent careers. He did a month-long internship to learn search-engine optimization, which, in April, turned into a paid role with an SEO agency called NoHatMedia. What does he do? Let’s say you own a business and you want to show up as the #1 Google search result when someone Googles “plumber in Walnut Creek,” “video production crew in New York,” or “best hotel in Tulum.” Chris helps make that happen. In addition, he’s built a network of websites that generate side revenue through advertising.

    / What will Tamara do for work? / I plan to return to my former profession, but with a twist. I’m setting out on my own as an independent consultant, providing communications support to do-gooder organizations. While I’ll take on my own projects, I’ve also joined the network of consultants at wonder: strategies for good, spearheaded by my friend and former Fenton colleague Robert Pérez. As a result, I’ve been working on projects to advance LGBT rights and give second chances to ex-offenders even while on the road. In addition to consulting, Awesome Supervisory Skills continues to be a source of income and an exciting project to promote. And I’m in the process of developing a set of coaching offerings around career mentoring and traveling sabbaticals. I already have my first coaching client!

    / How much will you work? / As much as we want. The beauty of living the 1099 life is you can take on as much or as little as you need. The downside, of course, is not having a predictable income. But to us, the flexibility is worth the unpredictability. We’ve had days where we’ve worked all morning, then hit the beach all afternoon to read. We’ve had days where we’ve been so deep into a project that we worked 10 hours straight. And we’ve had days where we haven’t worked at all. It’s about working smarter, not harder.

    / How does Holly feel about all of this? / I’d be lying if I said I haven’t worried about Holly. It’s not the traveling, it’s her age — she’ll be 16 in December, and that’s tough for a dog no matter where she is. While she’s showing some signs of slowing down, she’s still a happy dog with lots of energy. Chris always says, “As long as there are treats to be eaten, this girl has plenty of reason to live.” That said, we’re going to cool it with the border hopping/long-distance air travel to cut down on vet visits…and save me from the painful bureaucracy involved. We’ve made a lot of decisions with this girl in mind, and we’ll continue to do so.

    / Do you hate responsibility? When will you get a real job? / I’d hope no one we know would ever think this, but just in case, here goes: it takes a lot of discipline, maturity and, yes, responsibility to know what you want, set a goal, and take action to achieve it. Believe us, it would be a lot easier to slip back into our old lives because we already know how to do that. But what does that get us but stress and regret? It certainly wouldn’t serve some higher purpose. And, as time has shown, there is no such thing as a “safe” job. I’m proud that we’re adapting to the new world of work, and it will be an exciting new challenge to be self-employed.

    / What about health insurance? What about your stuff? / Like other self-employed people, we’ll buy our own health insurance. It will be an interesting challenge to figure out how to not double up on coverage while we’re abroad. In terms of our stuff, we have some things in our basement in San Francisco that we didn’t have time to sell before we left, so we’ll probably get rid of more. Maybe we’ll just keep our camping equipment, different seasonal clothes, and some important keepsakes there. Otherwise, we’ll continue to live out of our backpacks. We haven’t wanted for anything!

    / This sounds too good to be true. What’s the catch? / If there is one, I’m sure we’ll come across it eventually. I’ve already mentioned the potential downsides to self-employment. Honestly the only thing that comes to mind is when we end up in a less-than-ideal rental. But we’ve got lots more experience now and know how to spot the red flags.

    / How long will you be on the move? / As long as we can and want to, we suppose. Maybe we’ll fall in love with a small town we visit and decide to stay. Maybe we’ll miss San Francisco and go back to our condo. Maybe we’ll turn a minivan into an RV and drive through all of the Americas. That’s the beauty of it all: the possibilities are endless.

    / Aren’t you scared? / Yes. But you know what else was scary? Knowing exactly what every day was going to look like. The same commute, the same routine, living for the weekend instead of living. It is very likely that we could fail at this. Or, we could get sick of it and decide we want to settle down someplace sooner rather than later. Any number of things could happen, and it’s not worth putting the brakes on just because of the worst-case scenario. That’s like saying, “Don’t drive to the store — you could die.” So instead, we’ll close with a wise quote:

    A ship is safe in harbor, but that’s not what ships are for.

    Thanks for sticking with us until the end and for the encouragement and support. We’ll continue to share the tail end of our adventures, as well as other reflections on the year.

     

    Holly the traveler

    Holly, looking forward to her next adventure

     

     

  • 26Jul14

    26Jul14

    This is the MACAY Museum in downtown Mérida. We were there because the cooking class we booked had a snafu — we booked it using a third-party agency that finds local tours and they had a miscommunication. So, in the end, we have no idea how to make panuchos for you and ended up doing a little more wandering instead.

     

    Fake house of mirrors

    It’s an optical illusion you can walk through!

     

    Ceiling Casa de Montejo

    The ceiling in Casa de Montejo

     

    Walls Casa de Montejo

    It looks like wallpaper, but this wall detail is paint

     

    Former glory

    An old glory in need of some TLC

     

    Sunset Merida

    These beautiful clouds eventually churned out a lot of lightning

     

    Tamales

    Tamal de mole and tamal de pollo — forget over-hyped restaurants; this is the good stuff

     

    Carved Tree Merida

    Tree art

     

     

  • 24Jul14

    24Jul14

    These three panuchos represent our little traveling family: Chris, Holly and me. They also represent 75 percent of our diet while here in Mérida because we love them so much. We’re taking a cooking class on Saturday where we’ll learn more about how to make a few Yucatecan staples. Only a few more days here!

     

  • 21Jul14

    21Jul14

    It’s a relatively cool night tonight, so the windows are open and the A/C is off! We set out for some cheap eats and found this bacon-dog cart along Paseo de Montejo.

    We also took a free talking tour of the city center which was interesting, and we learned more about Mérida. Another quick tidbit for you: Mérida was called La Ciudad Blanca, or The White City, way back when because the people dressed in white and the buildings were painted white in order to repel the heat. Here are some sights:

     

    Casa de Montejo

    Casa de Montejo, built for the Spanish conquistadores…named Montejo

     

    Arch over Paseo de Revolucion

    Archway opening up to the Pasaje de la Revolucion

     

    Paseo de Revolucion

    Inside the Pasaje de la Revolucion

     

    Cathedral door knocker

    Door knocker outside the main cathedral

     

    Inside Merida Cathedral

    Inside the main cathedral

     

    Mayan Mural

    Mayan mural in the palacio de gobierno; all placards were in Spanish and Mayan

     

    Mural Palacio de Gobierno

    Another mural inside the palacio

    And now, for your moment of zen, Holly asleep on Chris’s foot.

     

    Sleepy Holly

     

  • 20Jul14

    20Jul14

    Welcome to Mérida! We’ve been here since Thursday evening. Even after being in Costa Rica and then Tulum for the past couple months, the heat here is really something else.

    The best way we can think to describe it is Las Vegas in the middle of summer, when you go out in the middle of the night and it’s still 90 degrees. Then, add humidity. So we’re adopting the siesta lifestyle and going out in the mornings, staying home in the afternoons, and then going out again after dark.

    A few facts about Mérida:

    • It’s got a very large Mayan population (the Spanish built the city atop a centuries-old Mayan city), lots of universities, and colonial architecture with Mayan details.
    • There are just under 1 million people living here. It’s also the capital of the state of Yucatán.
    • In its earlier days, the sisal plant (used to make rope, etc.) harvests fueled the economy.

    So far, people have been really, really friendly, from our Airbnb hosts to a college professor who saw us staring up at a building and stopped to give us a brief history lesson. Here are a few snapshots to get you acquainted with the city. More soon.

     

    Paseo de Montejo

    The sidewalk along Paseo de Montejo, a wide boulevard with monuments throughout

     

    Merida architecture 9

    An older house that has been revived

     

    Merida architecture 8

    More of these older buildings that have wide courtyards inside

     

    Merida architecture 6

    A building along Paseo de Montejo

     

    Merida architecture 3

    Church of Santa Lucia

     

    Merida architecture 4

    Floor tiles in the Church of Santa Lucia

     

    Merida cathedral

    The main cathedral overlooking the plaza; a group of youth were re-enacting Jesus’s crucifixion in the plaza 

     

    Merida architecture 5

    More buildings surrounding the plaza

     

    Merida plaza

    The sunny benches in the plaza go unused

     

    Merida chairs

    These concrete chairs can be found all over the city — I like them a lot

     

    Merida architecture 1

    More buildings while walking through the historical center

     

    Merida architecture 2

    A street in the historical center

     

    Saturday night in Merida

    An evening concert downtown

     

    Merida horse carriages

    Horse-drawn carriages that take people around town

     

     

  • 16Jul14

    16Jul14

    Today’s our last day in Tulum! We’ve been spending the past few days with my mom, mostly just lounging around on the beach because I pressured her into riding bikes with us and she took a big spill. That was enough adventure for all of us.

     

    Last day in Tulum

     

    Tomorrow my mom heads back to San Francisco and we head to Mérida. We’ll see you there! Here’s some more mother-daughter love, as well as a candid she got of me and Chris where I look super belligerent.

     

    Mama Tulum

     

    Tamara Chris Las Estrellas

     

     

  • 12Jul14

    12Jul14

    Chris and I are normally DIY travelers, both for budget reasons and because we’ve had mixed experiences with guided tours in the past. But today we took what was quite possibly the best tour we’ve ever taken: to visit the Sian Ka’an Biosphere.

    Pronounced like shaan kahn, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of jungle, freshwater lagoons and archaeological sites. We took a tour with Community Tours Sian Ka’an to see just a sliver of the huge preserve, as well as visit a campamento chiclero, or chewing gum camp, to learn more about gum’s Mayan roots.

    One of the best parts of the tour we have no photos of: a 45-minute float only in our life jackets (worn upside down, like diapers) through a crystal-clear canal with fish, mangroves and sun. Super. Cool. OK, here are the rest of the photos.

     

    Chiclero

    Welcome to the chewing gum camp

     

    Valentin 2

    This is Valentín — he learned to harvest sap for chewing gum when he was 12; he’s cutting canals into the tree so the sap all falls into the same path and into a single bag

     

    Valentin

    He has these spikes that he attaches to his shoes so he can scale the tree safely, which his father handed down to him; you can see the white sap starting to make its way out

     

    Cooking Chicle 2

    We cooked some sap he collected yesterday over the fire; this is a very small batch since it was just me and Chris

     

    Chris Chicle

    You must keep stirring the gum!!!

     

    Cooking Chicle

    After it heats up, it starts to ball up like this…

     

    Rinsing Chicle

    …and then you rinse it in water and it’s ready to chew

     

    Cesar Humo

    This is our main guide Cesar — he grew up in San Francisco but fell in love with Tulum — messing around with natural incense

     

    Sian Kaan View

    These freshwater lagoons are light where it’s shallow and darker where it’s deeper, and they’re connected by small canals that eventually lead to the Caribbean

     

    Chris Sian Kaan Tower

    Chris striking a pose from the viewing tower

     

    Sian Kaan 2

    No caption needed

     

    Sian Kaan Canal

    A canal connecting the lagoons from west to east

     

    Sian Kaan 1

    Looking out into the grassland

     

    Sian Kaan 4

    An ancient “customs inspection” building, which would monitor boats going through the canals with goods for trading, including chewing gum

     

    Roof

    The roof of the restaurant where we ate at the end of the tour; Valentín was part of the crew that made the roof

     

    Pollo Pibil

    Pollo pibil — the perfect ending

     

  • 10Jul14

    10Jul14

    This is Chris with William, el capitán. His boat is set up near our favorite part of the beach, and today we decided to take a ride to snorkel in the reef.

    We saw lots of fish, my favorite being the yellow-tailed damselfish, whose spots glowed under water. We also took a ride past the ruins at breakneck speed, so I only managed to capture a few photos when I wasn’t white-knuckling it.

     

    Tulum Ruins from Water 2

     

    Tulum Ruins from Water 1

     

    Tamara and Chris Tulum Boat

     

    In other news, our little Holly is starting to feel her age. She’s still got good energy and is quite playful, but she’s starting to get a little more sickly. She’s got a mild case of bronchitis, which the vet says is just due to her age, so she’s on some antibiotics. But she won’t let it slow her down! She loves playing with her toys and hounds us when we take them away so she can rest.

     

     

    Other updates:

    • Sabbatical Stories: Part 2 is out, this time interviewing two women who used sabbaticals to change their careers.
    • I talked to Lisa and Brookie, who we met in Costa Rica, about how they set up their new life abroad and will share their story soon.
    • Our friend Carolyn and her boyfriend Jon are heading out for a 1-2 year round-the-world adventure in one month!
    • Part of us wishes we were still in Argentina so we could watch Sunday’s final match there!

     

  • 07Jul14

    07Jul14

    After a little work this morning, we hopped on our bikes and headed for the Gran Cenote. It was a little farther than the first cenote we visited, but also much bigger.

    While Cenote Calavera is peaceful and situated pretty much in someone’s backyard, Gran Cenote has snorkel gear and lockers for rent. The downside: more people! It was approximately US$10/person to get in and US$6/person for a mask and snorkel, and it’s located on the highway to Cobá about 3.5km from the intersection from the main highway in Tulum. There were also people diving there.

    There was a group that was really scared to get in, which I could relate to from last time. But you’re not even allowed to jump into this one except from the platform down below. There were also some cool caves to explore, both under and above water. And little fish to swim with you.

    Anyway, enjoy the photos! And after you do, here are some good reads for today. Haven’t shared any in a while.

     

    Gran Cenote 4

    This is where the turtles are! You can see one swimming on the bottom-left

     

    Gran Cenote 1

    These caves continue pretty far back, and with your mask you can see how deep they go too

     

    Tamara Chris Gran Cenote

    Snorkel mask faces!

     

    Gran Cenote 2

    There’s a little “island” in the center, and the water goes all the way around

     

    Gran Cenote 3

    Clear and chilly water

     

    Gran Cenote 5

    Looking up