Category: Tulum

  • 08Aug14

    08Aug14

    Remember when we introduced you to Brookie (right) and Lisa (left) from Sámara, Costa Rica? We liked them immediately, and not just because they sell the tastiest treats on the streets. These two are our age and started a new life and business in Costa Rica, so I interviewed them a while back (better late than never!) to learn how they did it. Two minutes in, Lisa tells me:

    “When Brookie and I first met, I told her, ‘Don’t fall in love with me — I’m moving to Costa Rica.’ That was our first date.”

    And that, friends, is how I knew their story would be a good one to share. We don’t do it often on this blog, but it just felt right. Not just because they’re an interesting and inspirational duo, but also because they’re a couple of regular Janes building a life and business they want, despite barriers that hold other people back.

    Tamara: Let’s go back in time. Who were you before moving to Costa Rica?
    Lisa: We lived in Atlanta’s Cabbage Town neighborhood. It had the best restaurants, but also crackheads. I worked at a preschool and Brookie was a teacher. We were everyday people with granite countertops and stainless steel appliances. We worked all day, came home and watched TV mindlessly, then started the process over again the next day.

    Brookie: My first five years teaching were in a small suburb outside Atlanta. I wanted to serve the community I lived in, so I moved to an inner-city school. It was incredibly stressful. Imagine a huge classroom full of children with behavioral problems. I was working crazy hours. We both realized that we were losing our way toward happiness. We weren’t finding the path. We’d talked about moving to Costa Rica before because Lisa loved it so much.

    T: Lisa, at that time you’d already moved to Costa Rica once and came back, right? How did that come about?
    L: My childhood best friend moved to Costa Rica a decade prior and I visited every year. One day, she called and said, “I’m pregnant! Want to take over my job at this Spanish-language school?” I had just accepted a promotion at my corporate job for a beer, wine, and liquor distributor. I was happy, but I’d also fallen in love with Costa Rica and was seriously considering her offer. The VP of my company said to me, “Costa Rica is your dream; you’re going to shoot yourself if you stay here.” I took the job.

    T: That’s a boss who keeps it real. What happened next?
    L:
    Brookie and I met, and I told her, “Don’t fall in love with me — I’m moving to Costa Rica.” That was our first date. My stuff was in storage and I was leaving in three months. But the job in Costa Rica didn’t last long because there weren’t any tourists due to the recession. So I came back.

    T: How did you two decide to take the leap and move to Costa Rica together?
    L: Brookie came to visit me twice in Costa Rica; that’s what really helped plant the seeds. On one trip, we were waiting for the bus from Sámara to Carrillo, where we live now. I remember we looked at each other and were like, “Could we do this? Could we make this work?” A few months later, we saw a Craigslist job posting at a school in Sámara. That’s when we decided to make it happen. Things just started falling into place.

     

    Brookie and Lisa 2

     

    T: What was it like just before you set out? How were you feeling?
    B: I still remember how I felt when I told my principal I wasn’t returning next year. It was so liberating. And I remember selling my car. As it was driving away, it really hit me: wow, we’re moving to another country. Our last day in the house we spent cleaning, then we ordered food and were just sitting there on the wood floors filled with excitement.

    T: When you first got to Costa Rica, how did you each make a living?
    B: I started as a teacher at the private bilingual elementary school we saw the Craigslist ad for. My background in teaching was a huge benefit for us starting out, and something I’m insanely passionate about. I’m an introvert, so being a teacher helped me integrate myself in the community. People would say, “Oh, she’s the one teaching those English classes!” That opened up a lot of doors. People know we’re trying to make a life here; we’re not just two gringas passing through.

    L: Brookie won’t say this, so I will: she’s one of the best teachers I’ve ever seen. Children light up and their parents see it. Other schools were trying to recruit her. After teaching at the elementary school, she started teaching adults English. Now that we have our own business, it’s really helped us that people know who she is. I was doing property management at first, but it was so stressful that I quit and we relied on Brookie’s teaching background. I worked in a restaurant for a while, but that wasn’t going to support us so we started brainstorming business ideas.

    T: How did you decide what kind of business you wanted to start?
    B:
    It’s very common here for expats to go the restaurant route. We both are major foodies: we love eating good food, creating good food. We were interested in the restaurant idea, but it’s a really huge investment. Food trucks too. Also, you have to find the balance so paradise is still paradise. Those ideas could make us a lot of money, but we’d lose the lifestyle we moved here for.

    T: What inspired your business, Pura Paleta?
    B: It all started when I wanted some good ice cream! I was sick and tired of not having good ice cream in this town. Lisa was in the States and a friend randomly had an ice cream maker; she gave it to us and Lisa brought it back. We were really excited, thinking, “This is what Sámara doesn’t have that people will definitely want!” The up-front investment was a lot lower, but then we ran into problems.

    T: What kind of problems?
    L: Getting good-quality cream. Then, we were researching ice cream recipes and we came across the ice pop, or paleta. We remembered this guy in our neighborhood in Atlanta, an attorney, who fell in love with paletas when he was in Latin America. He started an ice-pop stand called The King of Pops. It was the perfect concept for us. Fruit is plentiful in this country and it’s always hot outside. The possible flavor combinations were endless. And we didn’t have to invest that much to get started.

     

     

    Paleta

     

    T: What was it like when you first started selling paletas?
    B:
     There aren’t a lot of gringos selling food products on the side of the road like Ticos do. Taxi drivers were staring at us, and one came over and asked, “What are you doing?” They were so confused, but wouldn’t bat an eye if it were a Tico doing it. Gringos sell stuff in stores or farmer’s markets. We were sitting on the side of the road and interfacing with people. That created some buzz for us. If we need to change how we’re doing it, we will. But so far it works great. Facebook is also helpful for us for spreading the word.

    T: How’s business so far?
    L: Sales have been great! People have embraced us and want us to be successful. Even though everybody is from different places, there’s something that ties us together. I hope that we’re providing an experience that’s more than just a paleta; it’s an experience of what Sámara is like.

    B: If this continues to take off, we could get equipment that will freeze ice pops in just 15 minutes. The day we put in the order for that machine, we’ll have made it!

    T: What’s it like, this new life you’ve built for yourselves? Both the good and the bad.
    B: People are so much happier here with less. You’re more grateful, for the beach around you, sitting and having a beer, awesome conversation. I look at my watch and I’m like, “Whew, I’d just be getting off work.” I know I’m happier now than I was in the States. There are not a lot of 25- to 45-year-olds who’ve consciously decided to not just travel but to make this a permanent home, so friendships and relationships are difficult. When I’m at my happiest, I’ve had a great day selling pops. Remembering to embrace the simple life is sometimes hard though. I have to remember not to get upset with this life because today wasn’t the best day.

    L: Over the last three years, we’ve trained our brains to think in a different way. I used to love gadgets. Like, the new iPhone is coming out! We are more conscious of needs versus wants now. When we go back to the States, our friends forget that our priorities have changed — it doesn’t really register for them. Everybody there oozes stress. We feel lighter, healthier. This life isn’t for everybody though. I do feel blessed that I have my childhood friend an hour away. If I’m having a major breakdown, I can go to her.

    T: So what’s on the horizon for you both?
    B:
     There are definitely more places we want to travel to. It’s difficult because we have animals and I’m very dedicated to them. To me, it’s important we stay situated somewhere, at least through our dog Bella’s life. We have a cat, Addi, too. I told Lisa, in the last year, this has definitely become home. That shift has happened. I used to say, “I want to visit home,” but now I say, “We should go to the States.” This feels more like the life that I want. I’m teaching right now to supplement us — the pay isn’t great, but it’s very rewarding. We’d love it if Pura Paletas took off. It’s my dream to have some land here with fruit trees and animals running around.

    L: Brookie wants a goat! Costa Rica is definitely ripe for this moment for us. We’re not trying to make millions; we want enough to live comfortably. We just started the business this past May. It’s all about poco a poco. We’re not ready to retire, and hopefully that will open the door for our next Central American adventure.

    Photos courtesy of Brookie and Lisa and the Pura Paleta Facebook page. Thanks and buena suerte, ladies! We’ll see you again soon, I’m sure.

  • 04Aug14

    04Aug14

    People have asked for more bugs, so here you go. This bug’s shed exoskeleton has been stuck to the kickstand of Chris’s bike for a week.

    “Why don’t you get rid of it? It’s gross,” I say to him.

    “No, it’s kind of like a hood ornament,” he tells me.

     

     

  • 03Aug14

    03Aug14

    We woke up to the sound of rain and Holly’s snores this morning. In San Francisco, we dreaded the rain, but here it cools everything down. After it stopped, we took Holly for an early morning walk and caught the sunrise. I love the clouds here.

     

    Sunrise Villas Tulum

     

    What you don’t see is the ground below, which is strewn with garbage. There’s even a sign threatening a MX$10,000 fine, but it doesn’t seem to deter anyone. Part of it also seems to be that the trash bin there is sometimes overflowing in between pickups. The beaches, at least, are free of trash.

    We headed over to the beach early to beat the Sunday crowds, and were rewarded with the calmest water. We just floated there for a very long time, talking about the future and reflecting on what we’ve learned.

    We’ll be sharing some fun posts over the next week or two, including some of our best and worst experiences, an interview with Lisa and Brookie about how they started their new life in Costa Rica, and lessons learned from the leap. More soon.

     

    Tulum Beach 3

     

    Tulum Beach

     

  • 30Jul14

    30Jul14

    We can’t believe we’re saying this, but our leap year is almost over. Or is it?

    This sunset is over a lagoon in Sian Ka’an, which we took yesterday since we’re back in Tulum. (That’s a story for another day.) In just two weeks, we’ll be driving across the US-Mexico border. After visiting friends and family throughout California, we’ll hike all 165 miles of the Tahoe Rim Trail with my dad. Even though it won’t be abroad, it will be the grand finale of our year.

    We’re so, so glad we took this year. Transformative is the word I’d use. Not only did we see beautiful places, but it has strengthened our relationship, our skills, and our ability to adapt. Just as important, it has reinforced our desire to live by our definition of success — not someone else’s. So, with that, we announce our next leap into the unknown: our new life as digital nomads.

    / What do you mean? / To us, it means a life focused on strong relationships and new experiences. We’re cutting out the things that don’t matter to us — an endless race up the career ladder, square footage with fancy furniture, the latest fashions and gadgets — to focus on the things that do: spending time with people we care about, jobs that challenge and provide meaning, and making the most of our time on earth.

    / OK, but what does that mean? / Chris and I have found a way to structure our lives to be location-independent. We are both embarking on location-independent careers, which provide us with fun challenges and income. While we won’t necessarily be abroad — there are lots of places to see in the US, too — we’ll be exploring different towns, cities, countries as well as making our way to visit friends and family more often than in this past year. So we’ll be nomads, and we’ll work digitally. Get it?

    / How did you make this decision? / It all started when we asked ourselves, “You know, we could pretty much live anywhere after this. Where should we go?” And we were stumped. Not because we couldn’t think of a place, but because we thought of too many places. Why limit ourselves? So we put together a budget for this new life, scheduled a meeting with our financial planner, and started making life decisions with this plan in mind.

    / Where will you live? / We’re keeping our condo in San Francisco, both as an investment and because we may want to move back one day, but for now we’ll continue renting it out. Maybe we’ll spend a month in Boulder, then two months in Tulum, then a month in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo before heading to Florence for two months. You get the picture. If it’s got internet access, it’s fair game. We’ll continue to rent Airbnbs/short-term apartments. The good thing about Airbnbs is we get double credit card points which means free fliiiiights…

    / Won’t you miss your friends and family? / Of course! But with this new setup, we’ll actually see more of our friends and family because we’ll have more flexibility. In our pre-leap-year life, we were limited to whirlwind weekend visits or setting dinner dates a month in a half in advance. The real question is whether our friends and family will have time to see more of us!

    / What will Chris do for work? / Even before we set out on our leap year, Chris started investigating location-independent careers. He did a month-long internship to learn search-engine optimization, which, in April, turned into a paid role with an SEO agency called NoHatMedia. What does he do? Let’s say you own a business and you want to show up as the #1 Google search result when someone Googles “plumber in Walnut Creek,” “video production crew in New York,” or “best hotel in Tulum.” Chris helps make that happen. In addition, he’s built a network of websites that generate side revenue through advertising.

    / What will Tamara do for work? / I plan to return to my former profession, but with a twist. I’m setting out on my own as an independent consultant, providing communications support to do-gooder organizations. While I’ll take on my own projects, I’ve also joined the network of consultants at wonder: strategies for good, spearheaded by my friend and former Fenton colleague Robert Pérez. As a result, I’ve been working on projects to advance LGBT rights and give second chances to ex-offenders even while on the road. In addition to consulting, Awesome Supervisory Skills continues to be a source of income and an exciting project to promote. And I’m in the process of developing a set of coaching offerings around career mentoring and traveling sabbaticals. I already have my first coaching client!

    / How much will you work? / As much as we want. The beauty of living the 1099 life is you can take on as much or as little as you need. The downside, of course, is not having a predictable income. But to us, the flexibility is worth the unpredictability. We’ve had days where we’ve worked all morning, then hit the beach all afternoon to read. We’ve had days where we’ve been so deep into a project that we worked 10 hours straight. And we’ve had days where we haven’t worked at all. It’s about working smarter, not harder.

    / How does Holly feel about all of this? / I’d be lying if I said I haven’t worried about Holly. It’s not the traveling, it’s her age — she’ll be 16 in December, and that’s tough for a dog no matter where she is. While she’s showing some signs of slowing down, she’s still a happy dog with lots of energy. Chris always says, “As long as there are treats to be eaten, this girl has plenty of reason to live.” That said, we’re going to cool it with the border hopping/long-distance air travel to cut down on vet visits…and save me from the painful bureaucracy involved. We’ve made a lot of decisions with this girl in mind, and we’ll continue to do so.

    / Do you hate responsibility? When will you get a real job? / I’d hope no one we know would ever think this, but just in case, here goes: it takes a lot of discipline, maturity and, yes, responsibility to know what you want, set a goal, and take action to achieve it. Believe us, it would be a lot easier to slip back into our old lives because we already know how to do that. But what does that get us but stress and regret? It certainly wouldn’t serve some higher purpose. And, as time has shown, there is no such thing as a “safe” job. I’m proud that we’re adapting to the new world of work, and it will be an exciting new challenge to be self-employed.

    / What about health insurance? What about your stuff? / Like other self-employed people, we’ll buy our own health insurance. It will be an interesting challenge to figure out how to not double up on coverage while we’re abroad. In terms of our stuff, we have some things in our basement in San Francisco that we didn’t have time to sell before we left, so we’ll probably get rid of more. Maybe we’ll just keep our camping equipment, different seasonal clothes, and some important keepsakes there. Otherwise, we’ll continue to live out of our backpacks. We haven’t wanted for anything!

    / This sounds too good to be true. What’s the catch? / If there is one, I’m sure we’ll come across it eventually. I’ve already mentioned the potential downsides to self-employment. Honestly the only thing that comes to mind is when we end up in a less-than-ideal rental. But we’ve got lots more experience now and know how to spot the red flags.

    / How long will you be on the move? / As long as we can and want to, we suppose. Maybe we’ll fall in love with a small town we visit and decide to stay. Maybe we’ll miss San Francisco and go back to our condo. Maybe we’ll turn a minivan into an RV and drive through all of the Americas. That’s the beauty of it all: the possibilities are endless.

    / Aren’t you scared? / Yes. But you know what else was scary? Knowing exactly what every day was going to look like. The same commute, the same routine, living for the weekend instead of living. It is very likely that we could fail at this. Or, we could get sick of it and decide we want to settle down someplace sooner rather than later. Any number of things could happen, and it’s not worth putting the brakes on just because of the worst-case scenario. That’s like saying, “Don’t drive to the store — you could die.” So instead, we’ll close with a wise quote:

    A ship is safe in harbor, but that’s not what ships are for.

    Thanks for sticking with us until the end and for the encouragement and support. We’ll continue to share the tail end of our adventures, as well as other reflections on the year.

     

    Holly the traveler

    Holly, looking forward to her next adventure

     

     

  • 16Jul14

    16Jul14

    Today’s our last day in Tulum! We’ve been spending the past few days with my mom, mostly just lounging around on the beach because I pressured her into riding bikes with us and she took a big spill. That was enough adventure for all of us.

     

    Last day in Tulum

     

    Tomorrow my mom heads back to San Francisco and we head to Mérida. We’ll see you there! Here’s some more mother-daughter love, as well as a candid she got of me and Chris where I look super belligerent.

     

    Mama Tulum

     

    Tamara Chris Las Estrellas

     

     

  • 12Jul14

    12Jul14

    Chris and I are normally DIY travelers, both for budget reasons and because we’ve had mixed experiences with guided tours in the past. But today we took what was quite possibly the best tour we’ve ever taken: to visit the Sian Ka’an Biosphere.

    Pronounced like shaan kahn, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of jungle, freshwater lagoons and archaeological sites. We took a tour with Community Tours Sian Ka’an to see just a sliver of the huge preserve, as well as visit a campamento chiclero, or chewing gum camp, to learn more about gum’s Mayan roots.

    One of the best parts of the tour we have no photos of: a 45-minute float only in our life jackets (worn upside down, like diapers) through a crystal-clear canal with fish, mangroves and sun. Super. Cool. OK, here are the rest of the photos.

     

    Chiclero

    Welcome to the chewing gum camp

     

    Valentin 2

    This is Valentín — he learned to harvest sap for chewing gum when he was 12; he’s cutting canals into the tree so the sap all falls into the same path and into a single bag

     

    Valentin

    He has these spikes that he attaches to his shoes so he can scale the tree safely, which his father handed down to him; you can see the white sap starting to make its way out

     

    Cooking Chicle 2

    We cooked some sap he collected yesterday over the fire; this is a very small batch since it was just me and Chris

     

    Chris Chicle

    You must keep stirring the gum!!!

     

    Cooking Chicle

    After it heats up, it starts to ball up like this…

     

    Rinsing Chicle

    …and then you rinse it in water and it’s ready to chew

     

    Cesar Humo

    This is our main guide Cesar — he grew up in San Francisco but fell in love with Tulum — messing around with natural incense

     

    Sian Kaan View

    These freshwater lagoons are light where it’s shallow and darker where it’s deeper, and they’re connected by small canals that eventually lead to the Caribbean

     

    Chris Sian Kaan Tower

    Chris striking a pose from the viewing tower

     

    Sian Kaan 2

    No caption needed

     

    Sian Kaan Canal

    A canal connecting the lagoons from west to east

     

    Sian Kaan 1

    Looking out into the grassland

     

    Sian Kaan 4

    An ancient “customs inspection” building, which would monitor boats going through the canals with goods for trading, including chewing gum

     

    Roof

    The roof of the restaurant where we ate at the end of the tour; Valentín was part of the crew that made the roof

     

    Pollo Pibil

    Pollo pibil — the perfect ending

     

  • 10Jul14

    10Jul14

    This is Chris with William, el capitán. His boat is set up near our favorite part of the beach, and today we decided to take a ride to snorkel in the reef.

    We saw lots of fish, my favorite being the yellow-tailed damselfish, whose spots glowed under water. We also took a ride past the ruins at breakneck speed, so I only managed to capture a few photos when I wasn’t white-knuckling it.

     

    Tulum Ruins from Water 2

     

    Tulum Ruins from Water 1

     

    Tamara and Chris Tulum Boat

     

    In other news, our little Holly is starting to feel her age. She’s still got good energy and is quite playful, but she’s starting to get a little more sickly. She’s got a mild case of bronchitis, which the vet says is just due to her age, so she’s on some antibiotics. But she won’t let it slow her down! She loves playing with her toys and hounds us when we take them away so she can rest.

     

     

    Other updates:

    • Sabbatical Stories: Part 2 is out, this time interviewing two women who used sabbaticals to change their careers.
    • I talked to Lisa and Brookie, who we met in Costa Rica, about how they set up their new life abroad and will share their story soon.
    • Our friend Carolyn and her boyfriend Jon are heading out for a 1-2 year round-the-world adventure in one month!
    • Part of us wishes we were still in Argentina so we could watch Sunday’s final match there!

     

  • 07Jul14

    07Jul14

    After a little work this morning, we hopped on our bikes and headed for the Gran Cenote. It was a little farther than the first cenote we visited, but also much bigger.

    While Cenote Calavera is peaceful and situated pretty much in someone’s backyard, Gran Cenote has snorkel gear and lockers for rent. The downside: more people! It was approximately US$10/person to get in and US$6/person for a mask and snorkel, and it’s located on the highway to Cobá about 3.5km from the intersection from the main highway in Tulum. There were also people diving there.

    There was a group that was really scared to get in, which I could relate to from last time. But you’re not even allowed to jump into this one except from the platform down below. There were also some cool caves to explore, both under and above water. And little fish to swim with you.

    Anyway, enjoy the photos! And after you do, here are some good reads for today. Haven’t shared any in a while.

     

    Gran Cenote 4

    This is where the turtles are! You can see one swimming on the bottom-left

     

    Gran Cenote 1

    These caves continue pretty far back, and with your mask you can see how deep they go too

     

    Tamara Chris Gran Cenote

    Snorkel mask faces!

     

    Gran Cenote 2

    There’s a little “island” in the center, and the water goes all the way around

     

    Gran Cenote 3

    Clear and chilly water

     

    Gran Cenote 5

    Looking up

     

     

  • 05Jul14

    05Jul14

    Just hanging out here in Tulum still, having a nice time. See, don’t we look happy and relaxed? We were waiting at a traffic light on our way home after watching Costa Rica vs. the Netherlands when I was inspired to take a cycling selfie.

    Now that Los Ticos are out (sadly), the only team we have any sort of allegiance to is Argentina, so we’ll root for them.

    Not much new going on, except that we’re doing some future planning and continuing to work on our projects. Tried some new types of pan dulce. Finished putting together our shortlist of things we want to do here before we leave. I also accidentally ran over an iguana on my bike! It was unharmed.

    Other updates:

    • We’ll have another visitor: This time it’s my mom! She’ll be here starting July 13 and we’ll hit the beaches together.
    • We’re planning our final stops: After Tulum, we’re heading to Mérida to get a little city life. Then, we’ll be checking out either San Miguel de Allende or Valle de Bravo before heading back to La Paz…then back to the US.
    • Holly’s hot: This is not new — just a continuation of her previous state. But she still likes going on her walks despite the heat.

     

  • 01Jul14

    01Jul14

    It’s #TravelTipTuesday! I know, we’ve really slacked on this. But when we saw this coffee menu today, we were inspired.

    The sign’s funny, right? But it’s also a good reminder: when traveling, mind your manners. Just because you’re welcomed into a country doesn’t mean you own the place. Give respect and you’ll get respect back. Simple as that.

    In other news, today’s game between the U.S. and Belgium was a roller coaster of emotion. As trite as it sounds, they left it all on the field. We enjoyed watching. Now we’re rooting for Costa Rica.

    Later this evening, I’m leading a live workshop on how to take a traveling sabbatical. And this morning, I interviewed Lisa and Brookie to get their advice on how to start a business abroad and enjoy the expat life. Also working on a follow-up to my LinkedIn article talking to people who took traveling sabbaticals and what it was like to get a job afterwards. Lots of good stuff coming your way soon!