Category: Mexico City

  • 22Dec13

    22Dec13

    This tree is a metaphor for my current state of health: somewhat gnarly. My cold won’t go away and now I’ve got some stomach problems. Neither are bad enough to put me totally out of commission — just to take away any holiday cheer.

    Yesterday, we did take two of visiting Coyoacán after our first try was nice but unsuccessful. We visited the Frida Kahlo Museum — la casa azul — and enjoyed it a lot. You have to pay if you want to take photos inside, so I said forget it. But we did get these two outside:

     

    Frida Kahlo Museum Mexico City

     

    There’s a beautiful park in Coyoacán called Viveros de Coyoacán, which we were happy to take a stroll through. It’s great to be in the trees.

     

    Viveros de Coyoacan Mexico City

  • 19Dec13

    19Dec13

    Today was an activity-free day, with a couple nice walks and lots of reading. With that, here are some recommended reads:

    Lastly, this photo made me smile today:

     

  • 18Dec13

    18Dec13

    According to this air-quality monitoring website, the air quality in Mexico City today is “good” to “moderate.” After snapping this photo today, I’m skeptical.

    Both Chris and I have had very dry, scratchy throats, lots of sniffling and sneezing, and are generally feeling breathless. We don’t think it’s the altitude, since we’ve been here for more than two weeks. I’m convinced it’s the pollution, with help from the smokers upstairs.

    In my previous life, I would do things like help promote research about the effects of dirty air. Knowing what I know now, I would skip the press release and create a mobile chamber with dirty air in it that people have to sit in. With their children. Although, the photos of Shanghai (scroll to bottom for slideshow) recently have the next-best effect.

    Anyway, it’s making both of us really cranky and ready to find a small town immediately. But if I’ve learned anything so far on this trip, it’s to stick with it and be a little more resilient. Maybe this brown cloud has a silver lining. Maybe we should get masks.

    We visited the Castillo de Chapultepec today, which houses the national history museum. It was very beautiful. Beautiful enough to make us a little less cranky.

     

    Castillo Chapultepec gardens

     

    The upstairs gardens are above, with some poinsettia planted for the holidays. Below are some stained glass windows from inside the castle which, if my Spanish sign-reading is correct, were about fertility.

     

    Castillo de Chapultepec Stained Glass

     

    And last, but certainly not least, there were a number of beautiful murals. I leave you with this panorama. Tomorrow is a new day.

     

    Castillo de Chapultepec mural

     

     

  • 17Dec13

    17Dec13

    Teotihuacan has lots of sun and fresh air — a nice refuge from Mexico City smog. See the smog in the distance? There’s another mountain at roughly 11 o’clock, but you can’t see it.

     

    Mexico City smog from Teotihuacan

     

    Teotihuacan is an ancient, pre-Hispanic city that is home to the world’s third-largest pyramid — the Pyramid of the Sun. Fortunately, they installed some simple handrails for safety. Here’s Chris braving the descent.

     

    Teotihuacan Pyramid Stairs

     

    Pyramid of the Sun Teotihuacan

     

    That’s the Pyramid of the Sun above. It’s pretty amazing at the top, and Chris had the foresight to have us get up early so we could beat the organized tours. Yes, friends — today was the first time in three months that we’ve used our alarm.

    The ride there was a breeze, but coming back we got to experience some of Mexico City’s famed traffic which was no bueno. There are plenty of buses that leave from Mexico City’s Terminal Central del Norte. We used the company that is at the far north end of the terminal, second to the last. It was 160 pesos round-trip for the two of us, plus 57 pesos per person to enter the park. Here’s more information about hours and tickets at Teotihuacan. The bus company will tell you where to catch your return bus.

    Overall, it was a great experience. You get to roam around and check out whatever you’d like, and there’s a small but informative museum with artifacts and other anthropological information. The big thing that I remember from the museum — and from the private tour Chris and I eavesdropped on — was that the people who lived there divided themselves by their trades. I was also pleased to be able to pronounce words like Quetzalcoatl, although sadly it’s because my alma mater still, in 2013, has the Aztec warrior as its mascot.

     

    Teotihuacan cactus

     

    Pyramid of the Moon Teotihuacan

     

    And there’s the Pyramid of the Moon. You can’t see it, but all along the Avenue of the Dead which runs through the city, there’s an underground water duct system. Near the entrance, there were a number of large holes that would capture the water. But I didn’t have the patience to look for the sign that explained everything.

    Enough of my rambling! It’s a world heritage site, so there’s tons of reading you can do on the history. I leave you with more photos.

     

    Teotihuacan Stones 640

     

    Temple of Quetzalcoatl Teotihuacan

     

    And lastly, since I began this post with smog, I found this article from earlier this year about a building in Mexico City that eats smog. Happy reading!

  • 16Dec13

    16Dec13

    One might ask, how do you afford a leap year? We talk about this broadly in our FAQ, but I thought I’d dig a little deeper.

    While cost of living has been less expensive on the whole, things can get wildly expensive if we’re not careful. Cocktails are still ~$8-10 USD a pop and a pound of chicken at the grocery store is ~$5-7 USD. Other things, like dog grooming, are wildly inexpensive at only $10-15 USD!

    Also, there are other costs that you need to plan for, like drinking water.

     

    mexico city drinking water

     

    These empty bottles held 52 liters of water, and we just opened another 10-liter bottle yesterday that we’re about a quarter of the way through. I don’t remember the exact cost, but they’re approximately $30 MXN, or around $2.50 USD. So that’s around $15 for 12 days of drinking water for the three of us. Not outrageous, and definitely cheaper than buying single bottles of water. That’s why water bottles were on our long-term travel packing list. But I digress.

    For the average person, your biggest recurring costs will be housing and food, so I’ll focus on those two for now. Plus, if you keep these two in check, you have money left for other fun stuff!

    Housing
    Laura Vanderkam says that the key to financial happiness is less house, and I couldn’t agree with her more. The same rule applies while traveling. Think about what’s really important to you. We were able to find something really cheap, but it had a cockroach problem and the running water was spotty so we had to upgrade. But otherwise, it would have been perfect: bed, sofa and coffee table, wi-fi, kitchen with a basic set of cookware, bathroom with a shower, a closet, and a central/walkable location. We’re not traveling to stay in fancy accommodations; we’re traveling to see the places the accommodations are located in!

    We have a set housing budget, and we do our best to stay at or below it by staying places longer so we can pay weekly/monthly rates. Paying hotel rates of $90-190 USD/night is only for emergencies. Laura Vanderkam also talks about how, though housing is one of your biggest expenses, it also only requires a single moment of willpower versus daily discipline. And because it’s your biggest expense, that single moment of willpower can have a disproportionate impact on your budget. So the takeaway here: take the time to shop around for places to stay and be disciplined about sticking to your budget; it’ll enable day-to-day splurging.

    Food
    Oh, we remember the days of dropping $12 USD on a tiny, unsatisfying salad for lunch in San Francisco. Gone are those days, and we’re eating much, much better. You can get great quality food very cheap. A typical day of food looks like this:

    • Breakfast, at home: Coffee, oatmeal, yogurt/fruit
    • Lunch, out: Street food, comida corrida (see photo above), or an inexpensive cafe
    • Snacks, out: Espresso drink/limonada/fresh-squeezed juice from a street vendor, cookie/slice of cake
    • Dinner, at home: Something homemade that will last a couple days, e.g. sauteed meat and veggies with tortillas
    • Booze: Wine if at home, beer if out

    Now, we don’t always stick to this because a) that would be super boring and b) sometimes other activities dictate where you eat. Sometimes it’s nice to splurge on a big brunch, but then eat leftovers at home later. Sometimes you just want a PBJ for lunch, and then go out for your weight in tacos and beer for dinner. We’ve been eating really good so far and aren’t wanting for anything. The takeaways here are: pricey doesn’t necessarily mean good quality or a better time, and try to make at least one meal a day at home.

    Hope these tips are interesting and useful! Still here? Here’s a Holly photobomb.

     

    Agua photobomb

  • 15Dec13

    15Dec13

    Despite another tourism fail today, we’re feeling proud. Just as proud as Leon, who won their league final today.

    We’re proud because people have stopped us on the street not once, not twice, but three times to ask us for directions. And today, we actually were able to help. Boom.

  • 14Dec13

    14Dec13

    Today was what some might call a “tourism fail.”

    First, we set out to UNAM — Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México. It’s one of the oldest and largest Latin American universities, with more than 300,000 students. It’s also known for beautiful murals and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We thought we could just walk off the metro onto the campus and revel in its beauty, but instead we ended up at the campus grocery store totally lost with lots of unimpressive buildings in sight.

    So we cut our losses and said hey, let’s do our homework and then come back another day. The place is huge and we could spend hours trying to figure out where to go.

    We hopped back onto the metro to Coyoacán and took a walk over to the Frida Kahlo Museum. Because it’s Saturday, and that’s a day when major museums would be open, right?

    Wrong. Just ask these other sad souls who got there and saw the sign on the door saying the museum would be closed on December 14.

     

    Frida Kahlo museum Mexico City

     

    “Que triste,” said another young patron. Sí, te acuerdo.

    By this point, we were more upset because we really, really needed to use the bathroom and were looking forward to nice museum bathrooms. So we wandered around into a Burger King of all places, because of course they’ll have bathrooms.

     

    burger king coyoacan mexico city

     

    Except that there was someone standing in front of the bathrooms demanding to see my receipt. It was an emergency, I tell you, so I stooped to playing stupid American. “Huh? I don’t understand.” After a minute of me shrugging, the woman waved me in, frustrated because she was just trying to do her job. I was not proud, but I was relieved.

    Now that Chris and I were able to think about anything else besides finding a bathroom, we set out to find some churros — only to accidentally order twice the number we planned on eating. The guy had already prepared them and it was our fault.

     

    Churros Mexico City

     

    They’re filled with chocolate sauce, in case you’re wondering. And yes, we went ahead and ate them all. So then, to walk off all the fried dough, we wandered around Coyoacán and enjoyed the sights.

     

    Coyoacan church Mexico City

     

     

    Mercado Coyoacan Mexico City

     

    And then we came home to our dog. Still enjoyed ourselves, and we’ll try again another day.

     

  • 13Dec13

    13Dec13

    Tacos al pastor are our favorite. They’re cheap and they’re everywhere. We just got back from stuffing our face with some.

     

    Teachers union strike Mexico City

     

    This encampment is in downtown Mexico City — and it’s filled with teachers protesting attempts to overhaul the education system. We drove by last night during an impromptu tour from Chris’s mom’s friend’s cousin and her husband. (But not a former roommate.)

    We’re finishing up our arrangements for our next stop beginning in January: Chile. We’ll stay a few days in Santiago before spending a month (or maybe more) in Valparaiso.

    I had a question about regulations for bringing our dog to Chile because our flight will arrive at 5 a.m. and, while customs is usually open 24/7 at airports, the agriculture departments (think USDA equivalents) in other countries don’t always have the same hours. But to make sure that wasn’t a problem, all I could find was a general government email address. I thought, Oh great — I love sending emails into black holes. 

    And then they emailed me back with everything I needed…THE EXACT SAME DAY. They even sent me an attachment with all of the most up-to-date requirements. #ChileFTW

  • 11Dec13

    11Dec13

    Why has it taken us this long to see lucha libre? And when can we go again? A choice quote from Chris last night:

    There’s a lot more slapping and ball-kicking than I was expecting!

    Still here? Some links to good reads for you then!

     

  • 10Dec13

    10Dec13

    During our leap year, one of the things I’ve been exploring is online training platforms, like Skillshare, which I’ve mentioned in prior blog posts. Well, I thought I’d try my hand at teaching. So here goes!

    In one of my first jobs as a communications person, I found it was nearly impossible to find an affordable, professional media training for the spokespeople in our organization. It was super frustrating. And when I did find one, it was only offered once a year.

    That’s the inspiration for my class: Give An Awesome Media Interview.

    It’s a self-paced class with video lessons and a project — conducting a mock media interview! I’m offering 20% off with the code “FRIENDS” for people who sign up before the class unlocks on December 17.

    It should be an interesting experiment and I’m sure I’ll learn a lot. Any feedback is appreciated! I’m going to keep thinking of other class topics and other online training platforms…