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  • 25Mar14

    25Mar14

    A friend of ours who’s thinking about taking a leap year of his own recently asked us, “Any words of wisdom on how to get started on budgeting?”

    Yes! Setting a budget for a leap year, career break, gap year — whatever you want to call it — can at first feel like a steep climb, but it’s easy when you take it piece by piece. So for today’s #TravelTipTuesday, here’s how we did it:

    / STEP 1: Use your imagination /
    How will you spend your time on most days? Will you make food at home? Go to a coffee shop once a day? Lay on the beach? Go to yoga classes? Volunteer? Write? Every day won’t be the same, of course, but try to get a sense of what an average day will look like.

    Then, think about special days (or weeks). Do you want to rent a car for a day trip every couple weeks? Are you joining an organized tour to the Galapagos? Will you take language classes for a month?

    The purpose of this exercise is to get you thinking about what you’ll do so you have a realistic sense of what it will require financially. Don’t worry, you don’t need to think of everything (and you won’t, trust me), but you do need a general idea.

    / STEP 2: Give your imagination some numbers /
    Next, do a little research and/or make some educated guesses about what it will cost to do those things. For example, search online for hostels/rentals in cities you want to visit. Activities like reading are free, but books aren’t (unless you can borrow library ebooks).

    Start populating a budget spreadsheet with your income and expenses, along with a notes column to remind yourself what’s included in each line. Our budget had the following line items, which we created monthly estimates for.

    Income

    • Condo rental
    • Freelance and side projects
    • Allowance from savings

    Expenses (non-travel)

    • Condo, including mortgage, property manager and insurance
    • Student loan payments
    • Credit card fees (our credit cards have great travel rewards, but come with an annual fee)
    • Cell phones (it was cheaper to suspend our phone numbers than cancel our contracts)

    Expenses (travel)

    • Airfare and long-distance buses (varies by how often you move from place to place)
    • Accommodations
    • Food, both groceries and restaurants
    • Travel insurance, which includes major medical, theft protection and more
    • Local transportation, including taxis, car rentals and bus fare
    • Activities (this is the “fun stuff” category, like classes, museums and kayak rentals)
    • Dog care, including vet visits and food
    • Miscellaneous expenses, like toiletries, replacement clothing or SIM cards
    • Bank fees (you shouldn’t have any if you use an ATM card that reimburses fees and a credit card without foreign transaction fees)

    You will find that your biggest expenses are housing and food. (And perhaps airfare/buses if you’re moving around a lot.) Finding accommodations with at least a partial kitchen will help tremendously; one order of yogurt and granola at a cafe is the same price as a week’s worth from the grocery store.

    Aside from replacement toiletries or socks, you won’t buy much “stuff” on the road. But you may pay a lot for activities. Chris and I’s idea of a good time is going to new restaurants. That’s why Step 1 is so important. For example, one traveler we met would join yoga studios, so that was a monthly expense for him.

    / STEP 3: Find a tracking method that works /

    While you’re on the road, you’re probably not going to track all of your receipts — especially since you’ll likely be paying cash a lot. One traveler would write down everything he spent to track where his money was going and make adjustments as needed. We did that in the beginning, but we didn’t last long! 

    We like to use Mint to track our spending, because it aggregates income and expenses across all our accounts, from the credit card charge for bus tickets to the cash we take out of the ATM. It also allows you to post-date transactions, so if you paid for something in March that you’ll do in April, it won’t screw up your totals.

    What matters most is watching the bottom line. Besides, your budget is meant to be flexible. Spending more on food and activities this month? Find cheaper accommodations. Under budget on miscellaneous expenses? Splurge at some restaurants. Spending less than you budgeted? Extend your trip!!!

    Hope this is a useful resource for getting started, and let us know in the comments if you have any questions.

    And last, but certainly not least, HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my mom. I love you!

     

  • 24Mar14

    24Mar14

    It’s our last week in San Martín de los Andes. We’ll soon go from this quiet mountain town to a humming urban metropolis: Buenos Aires.

    The time always goes too fast. We’ll miss being nestled in between green mountains and we’re sad we’ll miss the colors of autumn. Some of the trees are starting to change, but they’re supposed to be really red-orange and spectacular later on.

    A potpourri of updates:

    • Chris has some exciting news: he’s found a location-independent job! All of his work learning SEO is paying off and I’m very proud. Now I just need to sell/write more books and we may be able to keep traveling forever…
    • We’re still on the lookout for potential house sitting assignments. Every day, we get an email with the latest assignments, but so far the timing and/or locations haven’t been in line with what we’re looking for.
    • Our friends here in San Martín welcomed their new baby, Tomás. ¡Felicidades! We haven’t met him yet, but hopefully will soon.
    • This week I’m reviewing scholarship applications for one of my favorite programs, the Maisin Scholar Award. This is my fifth year as a reviewer. I like it because the award isn’t based on grades, but rather how much students really want an education.
    • We finally started watching House of Cards and we’re almost done with the first season. I have only two words: Peter Russo. I think we’ll watch the second season on the bus to Buenos Aires.

    Lastly, some inspiration:

     

    Emerson quote

    (Image credit: Escape the City)

     

  • 23Mar14

    23Mar14

    San Martín de los Andes has a couple different miradors overlooking the city and Lago Lácar. Yesterday’s weather was spectacular, with a high of 75 and only a gentle wind. So we shed our jackets and made our way up the hill to Mirador Arrayán, where the photo above was taken.

    Arrayán is a Mapuche word, which apparently means “place where we see the last rays of sun.”

    The first time we tried to go, we kept looking for a trail to climb the mountain, but the easiest way to get there is to walk up the road. At the coast of the lake, go south (left when facing the lake) and walk towards the highway 234 entrance. At the fork, go left — don’t go on the highway. 🙂 It’s about a 4km gradual climb, with views of the city along the way.

     

    San Martin de los Andes 3

     

    Since it was Saturday, we saw a few other people at the top and along the way, including a nice couple from Córdoba who took our picture. (Holly had to stay home for this trip. We were not about to carry her all the way up!)

     

    Tamara Chris Mirador Arrayan

     

    The second part of the road was a bit dusty though, so we were pretty parched. Casa de Te Arrayán — a tea house on the grounds of a hotel and historical site — is only a few more minutes up the hill, so we spent quite a bit of time there drinking some tea and enjoying the view.

     

    Casa de Te Arrayan San Martin de los Andes

     

    Chris Casa de Te Arrayan

     

    On our way down, we met a few other parched walkers who were so, so happy to hear that the tea house was close by and open! Definitely a worth the climb to the mirador and the tea house, and a great way to spend the afternoon on a warm day.

    On a totally unrelated note, a funny story we forgot to share from the other day:

    We were standing on the edge of the lake after kayaking when a young-ish couple approached us with a basket selling baked goods. Now you know I love baked goods, but our immediate reaction was to say thanks but no thanks.

    As they were walking away, I was thinking about why my immediate reaction was no, when I remembered — and laughingly explained to our guide — that in San Francisco, when young people offer to sell you baked goods, it’s because they baked pot into them. And who wants to get pinched for buying pot cookies by accident when abroad? He got a good laugh out of that and assured us that they were indeed just selling bread. Guess old habits (or internal warnings?) die hard!

     

  • 20Mar14

    20Mar14

    A couple people recently asked, “How’s Holly holding up?” So we caught up with Latin America’s favorite Cairn Terrier in an exclusive interview.

    How’s your health, Holls?
    “Every time I cross an international border I have to go to the vet first. I pretend to hate it so I get lots of treats. I’m a sturdy girl and the vet says I’m healthy. The last one even said I have great teeth for my age! My monthly doses of Trifexis keep the fleas away. But I’ve also lost a pound since we left, probably because I changed food brands, so I get extra big dinners now. Muahaha.”

    How ya lookin’?
    “Pretty darn fine, if I say so myself. None of the groomers know how to cut my hair right because they all think I’m a Scottie. There was one guy in Mexico City who actually asked what I am and then looked it up in his book. He’s my favorite. Can I see him again?”

    Have people been pretty nice to you?
    “Yes, especially since they don’t know what kind of dog I am and are curious. I got lots of head scratches and pets when we were waiting to cross the border into Argentina. Everyone had to get off the bus and wait around, so I went around and said hi.”

    What’re you up to these days?
    “Most days, I take naps, go on walks and play with my toys. Sometimes I go places with you and Chris, but I don’t like to walk too far. Sometimes you pick me up and dance with me, which I pretend to hate but secretly love. I also have a bone that I chew on that smells super nasty — it’s my favorite.”

    What do you miss most about your old life?
    “Peanut butter. I had some in Mexico and Chile, but there’s no peanut butter here in Argentina! Oh, and carpet. Tile and wood floors are slippery when you have paws.”

    Have you learned any new tricks?
    “What are tricks?”

    OK, what about friends? Have you made any friends?
    “I liked Lucas, the other 15-year-old dog I met in Valdivia. He really understood me. Sometimes the street dogs come up and sniff my butt, but I just ignore them and they leave. They’re much more civilized than other people’s pet dogs, who bark at me from behind their fences. They’re just jealous that I get to go on so many walks. And because I’m pretty.”

    What are you most looking forward to?
    “Chris’s mom is going to bring me new toys when she comes to visit! She better not try to give me a bath. I am NOT looking forward to our bus ride to Buenos Aires. I have to stay in my little house the whole time. But it’s worth it for the new toys.”

    How does it feel to know you’ve traveled farther than some humans?
    “I’m sorry, what? I wasn’t paying attention. Do you have any treats?”

    If you have any other questions for Holly, let us know and we’ll ask her.

     

  • 19Mar14

    19Mar14

    I take back what I said the other day about lack of growth. I am 100x more mellow than I used to be. I didn’t realize it, until I listened to my conversation on the Launch Yourself podcast with host Melissa Anzman about our leap year:

     

    Tmurray

     

    I’m also, apparently, now uninhibited enough to confess some of my darkest fears to strangers listening to a podcast. Click here to listen to the interview.

    In fact, fear is an underlying theme that we discuss throughout the show. Fear of change, fear of failure, fear of risk. One of mine is fear of having nothing to sell and no one there to buy, which I thought of when I snapped the photo of the closed-for-the-season craft fair above.

    Karen Thompson Walker says that fear and imagination are linked, and that fear manifests itself in different stories we imagine. In those stories, we’re the main character and something terrible is happening to us — if we take the wrong step. And sometimes the scariest story we tell ourselves is the one that is least likely to come true.

    A better way to use your imagination is to do an exercise like The Professional Hobo recommends. Take 20 minutes to write down 100 things you want to do, people you want to meet, ideas that interest you. Don’t think, just write what comes to mind. Later on, revisit the list and see what you can actually make happen, one at a time.

    If you take away anything from listening to the interview, it’s that I hope you devote more energy to imagining what’s possible rather than imagining what could go wrong.

    Big thanks to my new friend Melissa for having me on her podcast and to my friend and former colleague Mac for introducing us! Make sure you subscribe to her podcast. (Chris and I already did, and it’s been a lifesaver on our long bus rides, along with The Moth.)

     

  • 18Mar14

    18Mar14

    No, this isn’t the island where Dumbledore was buried — even though it bears a striking resemblance. It’s La Islita, a small island in Lago Lácar.

    We’d been looking forward to kayaking today ever since we checked the forecast last weekend. We patiently waited out the cold by hanging out around town and working on our projects (my book got a cover makeover!). We also did some indoor activities, including yesterday’s trip to…

     

    Che Museum San Martin de los Andes

     

    …the Che Guevara museum in San Martin de los Andes. This is the only photo we have though, because we arrived during mid-day siesta and it was closed. Which brings me to today’s Travel Tip Tuesday: websites aren’t always updated. We know, this one is super obvious. But this isn’t the first time we’ve found faulty hours on a website. The museum’s website says they re-open at 2:30 in the afternoons, but they don’t actually re-open until 5:00. Oh well, we’ll try again.

    Anyhow, it was worth waiting for today, because the weather was perfect for kayaking. Not too hot, not too cold. Our friend Harry even hooked us up with his friend Gonzalo who is a guide, and a fine one at that!

     

    Gonzalo

     

    He took us out to La Islita, and on the way we saw lots of beautiful cypress trees and sheer rock walls along the shore. He told us he’d kayaked the whole length of the lake once — which goes almost to Chile — and it took about four hours one way, traveling at a very intense speed.

    We were out there about 2.5 hours, including half an hour actually sitting and relaxing on the island. While it’s possible without a guide, we really enjoyed chatting with Gonzalo and learning about the landscape. In the fall, there are hardly any other boats or kayaks out, so it feels like you’ve got the whole lake to yourself.

    Here are a few more shots from the trip:

     

    Lago Lacar San Martin de los Andes 3

     

    Tamara Chris Lago Lacar

     

    Lago Lacar San Martin de los Andes 2

     

    And the crown jewel, my new capri tan lines to accent my shoe tan. Chris kept saying, “Are you sure your legs aren’t just dirty?”

     

    Bad tan lines

     

    Nope. Just weirdly tanned is all.

     

  • 15Mar14

    15Mar14

    These kayaks — they mock us. They stare at us as we pass by bundled up in our jackets; their bright cheerful colors reminiscent of summer. “Don’t you wish you could rent us?” they whisper. “Don’t you wish it wasn’t too cold?”

    Kayaks, you need to quit rubbing it in. What a cruel irony that we are just a couple blocks from a beautiful lake! The good news is the forecast shows warm weather on Tuesday, so we’ll show those kayaks who’s boss then. For now, more hot chocolate.

    A few travel-related links for you:

    The last link is the travel blog of a lovely couple from Holland named Elmar and Ellen (El and El). They’re taking two years to cycle the Americas — they’re about six months in — and we were introduced to them at dinner last night.

     

    El and El

     

    We look so happy because we’d all just eaten tons of ice cream. I’d encourage you to check out their blog, especially clicking on the link that tracks their route. It’s really neat to see where they’ve been!

    Other random tidbits on how we’re doing:

    • I was interviewed for a podcast the other day about full-time travel; I’ll share it when it’s live next week.
    • We’re both sore because we’ve stepped up our exercise routine.
    • Every day we’re scanning for house sitting gigs, but haven’t found one that looks promising yet.

    And to close us out, here’s a chicken that was hanging out by the hospital. It seemed so random, I had to take a picture. Maybe it was waiting to get eggs-amined.

     

    Chicken

  • 12Mar14

    12Mar14

    The sun is shining again! So we took the opportunity to get outside and get some fresh air. Not that the indoor time was bad — we got a lot of stuff done. But it was nice to feel the sun on our faces.

     

    Hanging Out by Lago Lacar

     

    We found a place to stay in Buenos Aires, which was a bit of a challenge since it’s tough to find dog-friendly places that are also in our price range. One guy on Airbnb had a place that was perfect, but he’d literally just rented it out. So he sent emails to multiple people on our behalf to help us find a place — it was so kind. He travels a lot with his dog, so he knows it can be tough. It’s always uplifting to experience the kindness of strangers.

    We also got our taxes done. Yay. Not really. Actually, the interesting part was that it was like going through a time capsule of our former life. We were going through online bank statements looking for our vehicle registration fee so we could write it off (oh yes, we go that deep), and it was absolutely insane to see how much money we used to spend going to bars and restaurants. I’m too embarrassed to tell you how much. Happy hour wasn’t even cheap.

    But it makes sense: we were working so many hours that cooking was a chore and drinking was the unwind. We cook a lot more now and actually enjoy it.

    And we treat ourselves in other ways. Our guilty pleasure throughout this trip has been bakeries. They’re beautiful, they’re inexpensive, they’re different everywhere you go.

     

    La Piamontesa San Martin de los Andes

     

    This bakery, called La Piamontesa, is my favorite one in town. It’s right around the corner from our apartment and there’s another one on the other side of town.

     

    La Piamontesa

     

    There’s a lovely New York Times piece about bakeries from last year with some serious life wisdom that I still think about often. And maybe it explains my love of bakeries. I really, really encourage you to read it. Here’s an excerpt:

    Peace descends the second I enter, the second I smell the intoxicating aroma of fresh bread, see apricot cookies with scalloped edges, chocolate dreams, cinnamon and raisin concoctions, flights of a baker’s imagination, and I know I am the luckiest person in the world. At that moment, in spite of statistical proof that this is not possible, I have it all.

  • 09Mar14

    09Mar14

    Brrr! It’s cooled down here, which means it’s the perfect time for some hot chocolate.

    In San Martín de los Andes (and in Bariloche too), you’ll find a chocolate store or cafe on every block. They’ve got it all: chocolate ice cream, chocolate fudge, chocolate liquor. Very delicious and very dangerous. So far our favorite place is Abolengo on San Martín and Drury, which is where this hot chocolate was from. But we still have many more places to try!

    A chilly day is perfect for some reading. Here are some good reads to close out your weekend:

     

  • 08Mar14

    08Mar14

    It’s a bit of a gloomy day, but rain is good and makes things green.

    When I’m emailing with friends, many of them ask me things like, “What else is going on that’s not included on your blog?” So here’s some behind-the-scenes commentary.

    On the non-gloomy side, we had a fun dinner last night with our hosts, Harry and Ivana — and their cute and energetic 2-year-old. Harry invited us to watch a presentation of his photography from around the world, which was really fantastic. I encourage you to check it out as well as read about their bike trip across the Americas. They’re really lovely people with interesting stories to share.

    We’re using today’s rain as an excuse to curl up on the couch, work on our projects and do some reading. Holly is excited because Chris’s mom is bringing her some goodies when she comes to visit us in Buenos Aires. We haven’t been able to find the bones Holly likes since we were in Mexico City.

    Switching gears so some heavier stuff, the other reason today is a bit gloomy (for me) is because sometimes I feel like I haven’t grown at all on our journey. Take yesterday’s blog post, for example. I still think the insights are true and reflect our overall experience over the past five months. But I hate that I’m even thinking about those things — both the good and the not-so-good. Constantly evaluating and sizing-up instead of experiencing and appreciating.

    It makes me think about this commercial we saw online about Cadillac’s electric cars. If you haven’t seen it, give it a quick watch:

     

     

    The reason this is marketing genius is because it taps into Americans’ deeply ingrained, subconscious value system. We can debate the many pros and cons of that value system, but I want to focus on one in particular: there’s no such thing as enough. While in small doses it can spur innovation and life-improving advances, in large doses it is soul-crushing and creates a total inability to recognize what one should appreciate and be grateful for. And I’ve realized that more often than not, I’m taking in the world and seeing where it’s lacking, rather than focusing first on what to appreciate.

    If anyone has any tips on how to practice gratitude, I’m all ears. I guess the first thing is to be grateful for is I’ve recognized this about myself and want to change it. So maybe I’m growing after all.