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  • 13Feb14

    13Feb14

    Yesterday, Chris and I celebrated seven years since our first date. We had a delicious dinner cooked by the owners of the guesthouse where we’re staying, and nearly all the items came from their garden. Seriously some of the best meals we’ve had in Chile. They’re always harvesting tons of tomatoes, squash, apples, peas, basil, cucumber, and so on.

     

    El Rincon Garden

     

     

    El Rincon Apples

     

    We just spent the past hour sharing some wine with the owners and some other visitors: two women from Switzerland doing a round-the-world trip, and a family from Rome who just moved to Santiago. It was such a great evening and one of our most memorable!

    When other Chileans heard we were visiting Los Ángeles, they all gave us funny looks and asked why. The city of Los Ángeles isn’t much — just a small agro-industrial city. But in addition to the national parks nearby, there are a couple places where local Chileans like to visit during the holidays: Salto del Laja and Saltillo del Itata.

    Salto del Laja is a beautiful waterfall, but it was a bit empty compared to previous years since apparently there wasn’t much snow the past winter. Lots of locals were posing for photos, taking a dip in the water, and looking around for the places with the best view.

     

    Salto del Laja

     

    Tamara and Chris Salto del Laja

     

    It’s quite the local attraction, with hostels and cabañas (cottages) available for visitors. There’s also a long line of food stands and souvenir shops.

     

    Salto del Laja 2

     

    We also ventured over to the Rio Itata. There were no marked trails, but there was a path that was clearly used by horses (guess how we knew?) that we followed along the river which was very pretty. A family having a barbecue told us how to find a small waterfall nearby — because we can’t go a single day without seeing a waterfall, apparently — so we went to go check that out. It’s called Saltillo del Itata, which is about 20 minutes north of the town of Campenario.

     

    Saltillo del Itata

     

    Saltillo del Itata 2

     

    It’s pretty small, and people walk around on top of it because it’s so shallow. There are campgrounds and picnic tables, mostly full of big Chilean families. The cool water was a nice respite from the heat, although maybe we’ll be missing the heat once we’re down in Patagonia.

    Lastly, because we didn’t give you anything for Travel Tip Tuesday, here’s a Travel Tip Thursday special:

    When looking for cheap airfare on sites like Kayak, Expedia, etc., find the flight you want and then check the price on the airline’s website. We did that today and got an even better deal. It’s easy to forget to do that.

    See you in Valdivia!

     

  • 11Feb14

    11Feb14

    Back on the road! Yesterday, we took an excruciating bus ride to a rural area just north of Los Ángeles, in the Bío Bío Region. It was two hours from Viña del Mar to Santiago, a two-hour wait for our next bus, and a six-hour ride to Los Ángeles where we picked up our rental car. Thankfully, it was only a 20-minute drive to the place where we’re staying.

    Even though the buses are comfortable, traveling that long always sucks. There was beautiful scenery along the way, but I was too grouchy to take any photos for you.

    We’re staying at a lovely guesthouse with just a handful of rooms that is nestled in the trees with babbling streams nearby. And fruit and vegetables growing! Check out the grapes.

     

    El Rincon 2

     

    It’s run by a couple named Wendy and Roland. They both spent years crewing private yachts, and decided that they wanted to settle down somewhere. The guesthouse was run by an older German couple who was ready to sell, so they fixed it up! It’s very peaceful.

     

    El Rincon

     

    We took a drive over to Laguna del Laja national park today, which they highly recommended. It is about an hour and a half drive east of here and almost to the Argentinian border. From Los Ángeles, you take the road towards Antuco and just keep on goin’. You can see the Antuco Volcano in the park during parts of the drive.

     

    Drive to Laguna del Laja

     

    Once at the park, it was only about USD$5 for the two of us to enter. There are lots of great hikes, and we saw lots in just two hours. The terrain is really interesting because of the volcanic rock everywhere.

     

    Laguna del Laja volcano

     

    No, that’s not dirt. It’s lava rock! Not far from the volcano, there is another mountain with a glacier up top. I’m sure it would be amazing to be here in the winter.

     

    Laguna del Laja glacier

     

    But I’m glad we visited in the summer, because summer means… waterfalls!

     

    Laguna del Laja waterfall 2

     

    Laguna del Laja waterfall

     

    We miss our friends in Viña, especially our housemate Eduardo who we had a great dinner with a couple nights before we left. But we’re excited for the adventure ahead.

  • 08Feb14

    08Feb14

    The sun is setting on our time here in Viña del Mar. It’s been a lot of fun, and we’ll miss it here. The ocean, the warm weather, our new friends. Also, our favorite bakery.

    It’s called Panaderia Maitena and it’s on the corner of Traslaviña and Valparaíso. Their bread is delicious and their pastries are even better. We’d often stop there for empanadas and/or berlines. Even at 10:00pm, it was packed.

     

    Maitena Panaderia Vina del Mar

     

    Chris finished his Spanish classes yesterday. He really enjoyed them, both because of the challenge and the people he met. We’re going to go to Chile’s first Red Bull flugtag with a couple of them today. We also have some chores to take care of before we hit the road.

    We’ll be making four stops over the next few weeks: a guesthouse in the countryside in central Chile, a stop in Valdivia, a lakeside visit in Puerto Varas, and a farmstay in Chiloé. After that, we’re planning to fly to Punta Arenas. Possible the plan may change. Who knows?

    We’ll keep you posted.

     

  • 06Feb14

    06Feb14

    Our leap year is more than just beautiful scenery and delicious empanadas. As I’ve mentioned to you, Chris and I are both experimenting with a number of projects. For example, in December I launched a class on Skillshare.

    Well, here’s the latest: my new ebook! It’s called Awesome Supervisory Skills: Seven Lessons for Young, First-Time Managers. Here’s a quick preview video:

     

     

    One of the things you naturally ask yourself when you have the time to reflect on your life is: what do I have to contribute to this world? I took a couple of classes on Skillshare about how to publish ebooks and how to market ebooks, and away I went!

    I chose this topic because I genuinely believe three things:

    • Being a manager is hard, and most people become managers not realizing how different it is from their previous role.
    • No matter what your job is, one of the biggest things that impacts whether you enjoy it is whether you have an awesome or awful manager.
    • My mentors taught me some pretty remarkable things, and it would be a crime not to share that with others.

    I’m new to the whole self-publishing thing, so I’ll report back on what I learn.

    In the meantime, the book is available for free download on February 6 and 7, and is just $2.99 regularly. Please help spread the word about the importance of awesome managers by leaving a review and sharing it with any new managers you know. Thanks!

     

  • 04Feb14

    04Feb14

    It’s Travel Tip Tuesday, and I’ve got a real shocker for you. (That was sarcasm, in case you couldn’t tell.)

    DON’T buy cheap shoes. Just don’t.

    My main, day-to-day shoes that I packed for our trip were very comfortable. A simple canvas boat shoe. But wearing them for 120 days straight — from the deserts of La Paz to the pyramids in Teotihuacan to traipsing around the hills of Valparaíso — is bound to take its toll on any shoe. So I found some Keds-like knock-offs for relatively cheap.

    Then, I walked four kilometers in them from our place to the Royal Guard Open tennis tournament, pictured above. Not even that far. But man were my dogs barking, a la Kevin Malone after wearing Kleenex boxes to Jim and Pam’s wedding. Blisters galore. We took the bus home.

    Now I have very uncomfortable shoes because I was being cheap. My blisters and I repeat, don’t buy cheap shoes. Not worth it when they’re pretty much your only pair. I may have to scrap these and go get new ones.

  • 03Feb14

    03Feb14

    Soon we’ll be leaving Viña del Mar to visit southern Chile. We’ll be leaving our awesome roommates, so before we go we thought you’d enjoy meeting one of them!

    His name is Alexey — although he sometimes goes by Alex. He’s originally from Moscow, Russia and he’ll be heading to Thailand and Morocco next. He kindly allowed me to interview him this morning. He was cooking his breakfast and I was perched with my laptop on the stairs.

    Tamara: Why did you decide to start traveling?
    Alexey: When I was a child, my parents were in the military. We traveled and moved from place to place all the time. Also, my mother is a fan of travel and always talked about it: the feeling of being on a plane or train, always moving, seeing new landscapes, sightseeing. She said travel opened her up to new views, even though she only traveled within the country which at the time was the Soviet Union. So from childhood I heard a lot about travel. At age 25, I took my first trip abroad to Egypt. That was in 2005 and I haven’t stopped traveling since.

    T: Wow, nine years! How many countries have you been to?
    A: In nine years, I have been to almost 60 countries. I can’t stop! I love the new cultures, new people, new food.

    T: So, which countries were your favorite? The top three?
    A: Australia, New Zealand, and Iceland. Australia, especially Tasmania, is like another world. It’s like the ancient world when the dinosaurs lived, landscapes you can only imagine in fantasy films or books. New Zealand also has fantastic and beautiful landscapes. Iceland is absolutely different but has its own beautiful northern scenery: volcanoes, giant waterfalls, glaciers. The glaciers are very blue, even in the summertime. Absolutely breathtaking.

    T: And how many languages do you speak?
    A: Three — Russian, English, and Spanish.

    T: What’s the craziest thing that’s happened to you while traveling?
    A: When I was in Uzbekistan, nine months ago, I was staying in the capital, Tashkent. I was checking in to a guest house and they said I couldn’t stay more than two nights because of local laws. If you are staying longer, you have to go to the police station to register your stay. I didn’t go to the police station, so I had to change accommodations several times to avoid staying more than two nights. One night, the police knocked on my door at two o’clock in the morning. They asked to check my registration or my passport! Everything was okay because I didn’t stay more than two days, but if you go there, you have to be prepared. Two o’clock in the morning! They checked all the guests in the hotel.

    T: You work while you’re on the road, right? How does that work?
    A: Yes, I am a freelancer. I have a close circle of clients I’ve worked with for six or seven years. I do advertising production — I’m a production manager. Whether it’s catalogs, books, or magnets, I manage the production from start to finish. I can work from the road wherever I am.

    T: Is there anything you miss about Moscow?
    A: Nothing, except my friends. I miss them so much. I keep in touch with them on Skype, Viber, Facebook, email, or iMessage. But I’ve decided I’m not going to live in Russia anymore. Last year, I wasn’t so sure. But eventually you realize that it’s impossible to go back. It’s like taking a step backwards when you want to keep moving forward. You want to do something more. There are also other reasons I don’t miss Moscow: the pollution, the crowds. I want a more peaceful life. If I could take all my friends and put them here, I wouldn’t dream of anything else. That’s the only thing I miss.

    T: What has surprised you about traveling? What’s easy? What’s hard?
    A: When you first arrive, it can be difficult to find your rhythm. Everything’s different: roads, buildings, language. Sometimes the climate. And when you’re planning to go a new country, you wonder how people are going to treat you. You read information online or go by what you hear on the news. But usually you receive a wide welcome. Like in Chile, I was surprised how people treat foreigners; they are very warm, very open-minded. The majority of countries welcome foreigners, even if we think we are not so welcome. People are willing to talk with you about their culture and experiences.

    T: You are very disciplined about going to yoga every day! You mentioned you’re traveling to other Bikram yoga studios. Have you always practiced yoga?
    A: No, I just started. I picked it up when I was in Phuket, Thailand. I saw advertisements for “hot yoga” and one day I wanted to try something different. It sounded so strange to me. In my mind, yoga was like meditation and nothing else, but it was actually very difficult. You sweat, it’s hard to breathe, you can’t see through the sweat in your eyes. I decided to do a challenge — 30 days of yoga in a row. Now, it’s my new hobby. For me, it was more of a physical thing, but it’s about your mind too. An American guy who practiced with me healed his leg. People absolutely change their lives devoting themselves to hot yoga. From that moment, I decided to visit places in Spain, Russia, Chile, and other countries to practice in different Bikram studios. That’s my project now.

    T: Any advice you want to share with other travelers or aspiring travelers?
    A: Be a good person. If you treat other people like you would your friends, you will receive the same treatment and energy from them. Whether you’re in Asia, Africa, North America — we’re all the same people around the world.

    Thank you for sharing your story, Alexey! We will miss you!

  • 01Feb14

    01Feb14

    Valparaíso’s Cerro Bellavista is home to the Museo del Cielo Abierto, or Open Air Museum. We didn’t know much about it except that it’s a number of murals throughout the mostly residential neighborhood. With bellies full of berlines, we set out.

    From Plaza Victoria, we took Calle Edwards up the hill. It was so steep and narrow that cars had to honk in warning before taking turns. There were a number of these tiles in the sidewalk which — we presumed — told us we were on the path to see murals. They seemed pretty deliberately placed. So we decided to follow them.

     

    Open Air Museum Bellavista

     

    And we saw some murals!

     

    Open Air Museum Bellavista 2

     

    There was a more formal entrance near Asensor Espiritu Santo, but the asensor was closed. So hoofing it up the hill was the way to go. The hills aren’t so bad. This postman below has to take them every day and he’s doing fine! He probably has really toned calves.

     

    Correo Valparaiso

     

    While we enjoyed the murals, it was also just fun to check out the neighborhood. The architecture is so interesting and the streets are so colorful. Gotta see as much as we can before we head south in just over a week.

     

    Cerro Bellavista Valparaiso

     

    Cerro Bellavista Valparaiso 4

     

    Cerro Bellavista Valparaiso 2

    ¡Ciao!

     

  • 30Jan14

    30Jan14

    Don’t worry, we’re alive. We’ve both just been busy with our projects! Chris is still taking Spanish classes for four hours a day and took on an online gig. I’ve been getting ready to launch my first e-book. And, we’ve been looking for a place for the next leg of our trip to the Lakes Region of Chile.

    I snapped the photo above because I love how red the tree is. In the background is Palacio Vergara; it was a mansion, then a museum, and now nothing because it was badly damaged in the last earthquake. Speaking of earthquakes, there was a 4.9 with an aftershock this morning! Like California, Chile is right on a fault line and experiences many terremotos.

    Also, our friends Laura and Chris posted their photos from our cooking class last week. Fun!

    We’re approaching the end of month four of our leap year. Crazy. We posted a few reflections at the end of month one, so I thought it would be good to throw a few more out there. In no particular order:

    • It’s nice to be in small to medium-sized cities. Still lots to do, but not quite so crowded and frenetic.
    • Chris wishes he’d started taking his Spanish classes sooner. It’s harder to learn just by traveling, but easy to learn when you have a foundation.
    • We haven’t used a clothes dryer in two months.
    • When we first set out, we thought we’d want to stay in one place for 2-3 months at a time, but it’s looking like 3-4 weeks is our sweet spot.
    • Holly is the new U.S. ambassador to Chile. Seriously, people stop us all the time to ask about her. Most people haven’t heard of cairn terriers, but there are plenty of westies.
    • It’s fun to have roommates while on the road. Makes for good conversation!
    • The food in Chile isn’t what we expected. It’s a lot of meat and potatoes, although there’s lots of amazing produce.
    • We have nothing formally booked or planned after Feb. 14 — we’re just going to figure it out as we go. Surprisingly, this does not make me nervous.

    To close us out, here is a photo of me and our little ambassador who kept trying to scamper away.

     

    Holly Quinta Vergara

     

     

  • 27Jan14

    27Jan14

    Would you like a pisco sour and some ceviche? Because we know how to make that now! We took a fun Chilean cooking class in Valparaíso yesterday. Pictured on the left is our instructor, Vlad, and our new friends Laura and Chris.

    They’re traveling in Chile and Argentina for several weeks, and have an excellent travel photo blog called Out There Somewhere. They’re professional photographers and all around good people. I encourage you to lose track of time looking at all their awesome photos.

    The class started with a trip to the mercado in Valparaíso with Vlad where we picked up all of our ingredients, including reineta. It’s a meaty, white fish that’s very popular in Chile.

     

    Chilean reineta fish

     

    Vlad also pointed out this other interesting seafood called piure. It’s red-orange and comes out of rocks, and if you eat too much your pee will turn the same color. Here’s a street vendor removing some from the rock.

     

    Chilean shellfish

     

    Our instructor Vlad was a very interesting dude. He’s a former marine turned school teacher, but during summer vacation he teaches these cooking classes. He was telling us about today’s much anticipated ruling by the International Court of Justice on who owns a triangle-shaped stretch of ocean (map) along the Peruvian-Chilean border, which is important for the country’s fishing industry.

    If the court rules in favor of Peru, Chile would be required to gradually return the territorial waters to Peru. And apparently Chile’s big concern is that it would spur Bolivia to file similar claims. Here’s the background on the War of the Pacific in 1879-83 between Peru, Bolivia and Chile if you’d like to learn more.

    Vlad taught us how to make a number of Chilean dishes: ceviche, pebre (salsa), pastel de choclo, empanadas de pino and drunken pears. We also did a tasting of Chilean wines and made our own pisco sours. Here’s our classmate Chris putting the egg wash on the empanadas before they went into the oven.

     

    Cooking empanadas in Chile

     

    Everything came out delicious — as well as beautiful, thanks to Vlad’s attention to presentation. Look how nice this ceviche looks! The class was a really memorable experience, both because of the food and the people. Friends in San Francisco, we promise to cook you something when we get back.

     

     

    UPDATE: Laura and Chris posted their photos from the class!

  • 25Jan14

    25Jan14

    Chile has a lot of German influence in its culture — beyond the Volkswagens on this clothesline. The biggest wave of German immigrants arrived in Chile in the late 1800s and early 1900s. And with them came an influence on a very important aspect of life: beer.

    The photo above was from a beer festival near Valparaíso’s Muelle Barón, a big dockyard. Damaged by past earthquakes, it is now mainly used as a pedestrian promenade and for events.

     

    Muelle Baron Valparaiso sea lions

     

    Muelle Baron Valparaiso

     

    Chris beer festival

     

    The festival is still happening right now, but we already spent quite a bit of time there earlier. To be honest, I’m not quite sure how I’m able to even write this.

     

    Tamara beer festival

     

    Who’s that borracha? Anyhow, the coolest thing was a bunch of old rail cars where a few of the breweries were set up. A guy in a kilt came up to us and asked us if we were South African, because apparently there were a ton of South African tourists there that day.

     

    Rail cars Valparaiso

     

    All in all, a nice day. Our roommate and friend from Russia is back from a trip to Patagonia. We tried some pastel de choclo for the first time. And Chris got a haircut so we both got to practice our Spanish while chatting up the barber. When we told him we were in Mexico before we came to Chile, he mimed a wild west-style quick draw for us and told us that Mexicans carry revolvers. I didn’t want to know what he thought of people from the U.S.

    Lastly, here’s a photo of a performance happening just a few blocks from our house. I took this photo because I liked the women’s dresses.

     

    Vina del Mar band